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SuperJoe...voltage between Positive terminals was 1.5 volts....negative was 0. I'm assuming that is showing the crossover cable as ok.
I did reconnect everything except the driver alternator and used a jump pack to start the truck and keep it running. Today the drive alternator was outputting...
SuperJoe,
Thanks... the pictures match my setup exact. At least I know I didn't miss something with the swap.
And thanks for the suggestion for checking the crossover cable... I do that this evening.
Trash Panda... I don't disagree that would be the best solution.
But I think I would need to get the low voltage battery fully charged prior to having the load test... So I was just thinking my above "experiment" might point me in the right direction.
I'm going to try my test tonight after...
Trying to think of a way to test the battery.... How does this sound?
Disconnect the driver battery (one with low voltage). Connect it to a battery charger to see if it will take and hold a charge.
If it won't, bad battery and I can replace it.
If it will...then....
With the driver battery...
Brakes were fine. At least I think they were. I was going slow by the time all that went out.
With the alternator fuse are you speaking of the block fuse between the battery and the alternator cable? If so, yes I did check that, it ohms out ok. If you are talking about a fuse in the fuse...
Not sure if it will help you any. I purchased Duraflap instead of Gatorback.
I ordered the 15 x 20.
15 long 20 wide.
The 20 wide covers the stock tires perfectly.
I'm guessing the 24 from gator back would be the width. I say that because my 15 inch long almost reach the ground.
I replaced the batteries myself. I checked all the connections last night. But will check again. My confusion is why the driver alternator would register 0 volts unless the computer manages which one produces power.
I’m gonna pull the battery to have it tested.
No codes. Just the dash lighting up like a Christmas tree then going completely dark.
I had thought the batteries were dead a day ago when the truck wouldn’t start. They were replaced with new batteries on Tuesday. Wednesday evening is when the driver drained to 6 volts while while...
2022 cummins 3500 with Dual Alternators. It appears one is not functioning. Started by getting low voltage warning on my dash. Showing 10 volts. Truck ran fine and I was thinking it was the voltage sensor. Today on the way home it dropped to 9 volts and the truck went a little crazy. Dash...
I agree. Hope it helps. But the way I read the deregulation, is it affects the rules that take affect for 2027 vehicles.
Might make it less risky to delete, but won’t make it legal. I’m guessing most shops won’t start offering deletes as a service.
However I’m hopeful it will maybe reduce...
Finally threw the Regen code when I could get it to the dealer. Ram told them to clear the code and see if it comes back. I had the code on for two weeks thru 2 regens. They clear it and drive 300 miles... no code...
no code no issue. I get to go pick it up tomorrow.
What a waste of time
mbarber84.... I don't have an iDash... just using a odb2 dongle with OBD Fushion app.
Temps are about the same... 24 degrees in Indiana today. Elevation is obviously lower... don't know if that has any affect.
Posted the above on November 7. Over the next three weeks without Archoil, the truck regened at 40 miles, 70 and the most recent at 99 miles. The last Regen threw the P2459 code. But, I had just hooked up to my RV to head to the smokies for Thanksgiving 11/27. The truck regened normal while...
Here is a fun status... 22 3500 HO with the frequent Regen issue... averaging 160 miles between Regen unless towing. This is with using Archoil over the past 8 months.
Pulled a 16,000lb fifth wheel from Indiana to Florida... 1000 miles... was able to get a 24 hour Regen.
Pulled it home.... and...