Search results

New hose, new clamps and new radiator cap. Make sure the overflow hose and associated aren’t blocked.

I would look to body mounts.

The 2500…~35k The Titan, just over 200k work/city miles mostly. Rode hard and put away wet, always.

I haven’t wheel bearing-ed the 2500 yet, thankfully. The Titan work truck ate some hub assemblies quick after the factory eventually failed, Autozone and O’Reillys. Put Moogs on it and has been a good while with no trouble.

Yeah, I had Thuren front and rear in the cart. The extra work involved with the rear, being uncertain that the wallowing was track bar related, that the Rough Country bars were over the counter here and a ton cheaper..went that way, probably shouldn’t have. FWIW…my issue was a feeling that the...

I couldn’t tell except for experiencing the wallowing/floating that guys describe when their bars are shot and the same that is supposedly eliminated by replacing with better aftermarket. Replacing mine with new stopped it 95%, so assuming mine were not great.

Mine got “floaty” at around 35k miles, the last 22k or so were mine. It became dang floaty this hunting season. The previous owner was a realty company that used it driving folks to houses, I have used it hard off road and it is almost always above payload when doing that. Strange that the float...

The weight of a big diesel motor up front will always be intolerable off-road, afaic. A real PW is overly heavy as it is, too heavy really..far too heavy at times.

What is not great about these? They were on my truck when I got them but got ditched during my fight with a persistent vibration, didn’t have them long. Have the Nitto RGs on it for a few years now, they have been ok except in frozen mud stuff where they become slicks.

That is horrible. Trucks don’t rust here but if mine did akin to yours, I’d hose all of that with a rust converting, flat black spray paint.

At least you know that the alignment is proper instead of factory jacked, hopefully you have a good guy on it instead of flailing forever at the dealership.

Have it inspected and aligned to the Thuren specs at a good alignment shop and then have the tires looked at by a knowledgeable guy at a real tire shop, road force again if he says they are good.

Always called it the intermediate shaft, myself.

Out of town for me nowadays means hunting and fishing, thats it. I have no interest in hunting or fishing new spots, let alone those out of state. King of a few rather than a jack of many..my places. So, probably won’t roam out of state again if I can help it. Def not going west, fcs. The...

Meh…Never no way, family can come see me. They all want to come here to dink around anyway. I am willing to go 14 miles into Arizona and make a right, about it. Some serious grade there, PW pulls it fine.

ECUs, infotainment and modules, especially air bag modules are all vulnerable to spike/surge when welding. Disconnect both battery terminals and as mentioned, keep your ground close to your work. Disconnect modules, ECUs and any other sensitive components in close proximity. They sell...

Electrolysis, man…it is what swells the stainless cover. The two metals form a galvanic couple when electrolyte intrudes between them. The less noble carbon steel lug nut will erode due to galvanic corrosion producing iron oxide, akin to the greenish junk that forms on a boat motor’s sacrificial...

They are supposedly nickel-plated stainless…what stainless IDK. Remember that from googling back when it happened to me.

Indeed…one piece is key.