Recent content by Skid51

For a number of reasons (new trailer glitches; big boat; shallow ramp angle) my ‘24 PW spent 15mins idling with the back end well into the lake and deep enough for water to be part way up the tailgate, and with rear bumper, hubs, axles and exhaust well under water, front doors just out but rear...

Pix of the mount + protection afforded the pinch weld, and rails with and without steps. Yes these are not sliders but should sacrifice and protect the pinch welds from minor dings, sliding over logs or ice ledges. Steps themselves went on very quickly, added some anti-seize to the bolts as...

Thanks, that orientation worked for me too. I contacted N-Fab and they sent me the attached installation guide. Not sure why they wouldn’t include it in the packaging or have it on the Realtruck website but here it is… hope it helps someone in the future. Steps go on quick once you know...

@Soapy I was starting to install these same N-Fab RKR steps today. Of course there were no installation instructions in the packaging and N-Fab’s website video is for a RAM 1500 which has entirely different mounts. One thing they did state was the N-Fab logo should be rearward of the centre...

Well, April certainly went out like a lion. Anyways, underneath all that are my brand new Mickey’s.. Baja Boss A/T in a 315/70-17, E-load rated. The tire shop had them pumped to 60+ psi, I have deflated to 50F/45R (cold) but believe I have read in these forums that with E-rated 35’s you are...

Anyone with 37’s have experience running a 35“ spare? I imagine you’d be ok from a handling and safety perspective to use one to drive, temporarily and conservatively, to a tire shop but is there risk of grinding the rear LSD on dry pavement if rear tires are mismatched in size?

Can any one with Go Rhino RB20 steps (normal ones, not Slims) comment on whether they stick out enough to prevent parking lot door dings from cars (ie from lower opening doors)?

Not a requirement here in the Cdn Rockies but given I ran dedicated winter tires 6+ months of the year on past trucks I feel 3PMSF is a minimum threshold for a year-round tire. Research on the Recon doesn’t uncover anyone raving about snow/ice performance and just visually you can see it has...

I’d love a 37x11.5R17 in a MT BB AT on stock rims but I believe the only availability in that size is a Nitto Recon. I do want a 3MPSF which the Recon is not.

Would going with 37x11.5’s clear those mudflap bolt heads? Also does a 37x11.5 (on OEM rims) avoid rubbing the radius arms? I am leaning to a skinnier A/T tire in any event for winter performance. Would like to make 37’s work but do want to stick with stock rims and keep front mudflaps for now.

What steps are those?

On a side note, Jncarson, are those 37’s? Feedback so far has told me mudflaps in the front will not work with 37’s… that there will be rub at least in reverse at near full-lock. What’s your experience? Thanks.

Thanks for the helpful replies. To clarify use, although my off-road use doesn’t plan for pivots or boulder drops, I do at times mis-step and slide over a log, ice shelf or mound of snow. That’s why I think a smooth bottomed, tucked in step covering the pinch weld, like the OEM sliders or...

I’m inclined to 37’s, but want to keep front mudflaps. Anyone able to run 37x12.5’s (these would be AT’s on -18 to 25m offset rims) and not rub on mudflaps or mounting hardware? Seems the boltheads could be in the line of fire at partial or full lock (Sorry for the muddy pic, kinda slushy here)

Break-in miles, half-way through the first tank and lovin’ it. Smartcap assembly and install went quite well, maybe 3-4 man-hours all-in but we putzed around some getting end pieces flanged up right. Next is step rails and tires. Going with OEM sliders I can source second hand or the N-FAb...