Recent content by housedrx

instead of lowering the truck a better choice is an adjustable ball mount. When set up correctly the trailer and tow vehicle should both be as close to level as possible. Towing unlevel affects breaking... sway and on tandem axle trailers improper load distribution on the axle bearings.

I get 10 towing a 37 foot travel trailer...14 around town and 20 empty on the hwy.

no as I have been retired for a few years. What I am referring to is the weight you can tow. The way the state tow capacity is misleading because of the way they determine the load ratings

As a rep in the rv business that is a long standing figure used when selecting a trailer to fit the tow vehicle

And you are a pompus ass talking out you butt. I have been doing this for over 50 years probably longer then you have been alive.

I said in many not all....

Keep in mind all manufacturers determine the rating using a flat trailer with a load. If you trailer a camper (TT orFW) deduct 10% from GVWR to allow for the wind resistance

If you are going to tow a TT you should be using a weight distribution set up with sway control not just a ball. Very different from a boat or utility trailer. I have towed TT's over 250000 miles and prefer the old school Reese hitch with 2 adustable friction sway controls.

Last thing I will say....if a gooseneck coupler was so good all FW would have it. Its you rv do as you wish. Oh and the frames we used were better then Lippert....who bought them out.

A pinbox is designed to absorb a lot of vibration and load and soften the vehicle movement something a gooseneck does NOT provide. I have seen frames shear off on goosenecks that never sheared with a normal pinbox.

FWIW....you can void the warranty on the FW and cause frame cracking using a gooseneck. I was a rep in the RV industry and know

Dangerous as well as stupid looking. And in many you can get engine dry sump causing failures

I had an issue at 400 miles where all sound went total garbled static. Went to the dealer and the did a hard reboot (disconnect battery for 15 to 20 min) and sound was good. Left to go home and had no XM and the heater controls were stuck on high fan full heat. Went back and they said return at...

Nope. As weight shifts it make the noise. I checked the bolts. It was fixed for 2 months then came back

Has anyone got a drivers seat that pops and clunks? Mine can be heard and felt and is very annoying. Dealer has replaced the seat frame once which stopped the problem for 2 months now its back. Ram said to replace the frame again.