Stepping up from 1500 after less than a year

[Apexbasher]

I bought my first pickup truck ever, a 2019 Ram 1500 Bighorn (5th Gen), last winter to use as a tow vehicle for the Airstream we purchased. But have discovered the tongue weight was signicantly more than expected and we are over GVWR on the 1500 before putting anything in the bed of the truck yet. SOOOoooooo guess we are stepping up to a 2500 and may as well be a Cummins.

To keep costs down and the printed GVWR up I am looking to add some factory options myself over time. And THAT is why I'm here, to see how others fared in this arena and maybe add to the discussion as well.

 

[oaklandopen]

What are your actual numbers when it comes to towing vs the options you're getting on the truck? The 2500 with the cummins can still make for some crappy payload numbers depending on your options. Just the engine choice is about 800lbs difference in payload

I've had 2 1500s with 5.7, a 3500 srw with cummins, and now a 2500 with the 6.4
Also had a small TT with no slides, a 5th wheel, and now a 34' TT with my current truck. I really like my setup now because I get to have a cap on the truck and load it up with pretty much what I want

 

[Kimo7]

I’ve been where you are and would echo what oaklandopen said. I previously owned a 2017 2500 Limited with the Cummins heavily optioned that only had 1900 lbs cargo cap due to the weight of the diesel and tranny. By contrast I now have a 2019 2500 Laramie with the HEMI also pretty well optioned that has over a 1,000 lbs more cargo capability and slightly less than 3,000 lbs towing. Given I’m towing, a 11k lb travel trailer with 3 slides, approx 1300 lb tongue weight, and the number of times and distance I tow, the big HEMI was the best fit for the money. The HEMI is significantly cheaper and doesn’t have the additional maintenance requirements. They are different things and both definitely have their place for the application you intend to use it for. I would advise if you want a diesel then go 3500, if not, a 2500 with the HEMI is nearly as capable and lots cheaper, especially over the long term.

I’ve added a lot of aftermarket stuff to all the vehicles I’ve owned over the years, some worked well and some didn’t. I am of the opinion that factory installed options tend to work better and integrate more seamlessly with the overall systems design. Honestly I don’t think I saved any money by going aftermarket other than not incurring interest on the item in the loan. I added aftermarket air bags with an onboard compressor to my current truck to help distribute the tongue weight. I think all in it cost me a little over $800 installing it myself. It would’ve been around $1400 - $1500 at a specialty shop. The factory option of rear leveling suspension is around $1500 - $1600. The difference is with the Air Lift system I have input and some degree of control BUT... have to learn where the sweet spots are and it’s only my subjective judgment if it’s right or not. The factory option is SELF LEVELING which I had in my previous truck and I loved it because it ran on magic, it just worked and I didn’t need to mess with it. I hitched up the travel trailer, it would squat then the compressor kicked and ta-da the old girl came back to level all on its own.

Good luck with your decision, you’ll be very happy with whatever you go with. These trucks are more capable with each new year model.

 

[CRToney]

I have a 2017 Ram 1500 as well as a 2500 and 3500 DRW. I’ve seen too many 1500s going down the highway with the tail wagging the dog. Shorter wheelbase, smaller, brakes, fewer wheel studs etc. Why push the limits of a truck to the max. When things get dicey it’s nice to have a factor of safety.

On the newer 2500s with coil springs you can buy aftermarket springs that are inexpensive and easy to install. I installed some on my 1500. They were 20 min install and didn’t break the bank. Truck still rides smooth, my headlights don’t point to the sky & it is much more stable with a load.


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[yycdiesel]

I have a 2017 Ram 1500 as well as a 2500 and 3500 DRW. I’ve seen too many 1500s going down the highway with the tail wagging the dog. Shorter wheelbase, smaller, brakes, fewer wheel studs etc. Why push the limits of a truck to the max. When things get dicey it’s nice to have a factor of safety.

On the newer 2500s with coil springs you can buy aftermarket springs that are inexpensive and easy to install. I installed some on my 1500. They were 20 min install and didn’t break the bank. Truck still rides smooth, my headlights don’t point to the sky & it is much more stable with a load.


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I have to agree here, would a 2500 have done everything i needed, yes! But would i be 90 percent, max or even over max occasionally? Yes.

So i went 3500 rather be at 70 percent payload then 80-90 or 100+

 

[Distillusion]

If you think you might down the road want to add any kind of extra systems like a compressor or off road lights that require a switch, I would highly recommend that you order or find a truck with the instrument panel auxiliary switches. It's a really cheap option, only $145. But adding it after the fact can be a lot of work, a lot of annoyance, and cost nearly the same if not more by the time you're done.

 

[Brutal_HO]

One other option for a non-factory switch setup is the Switch-Pro a new member posted about recently. Very nice looking install if you don't have/need the useless wireless charger in your console.