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School me on WDH/Anti-sway

Bcrouse

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Appreciate it, but I'm already aware of it. Due to the layout of the hitch on the trailer there is a battery box mount and propane tank in the way. So the only option would have been to cut, move and reweld one or both of the battery and propane mounts. I wasn't sure how much the wife and I would like the trailer, or like camper life overall, so we decided to deal. It wasn't a huge issue locally, but it became a problem on the road.

Again, I'm not sure how many trailers will have this issue, but at least for my trailer, there is no way it would have fit from the factory without cutting and welding. I don't know how many trailers have the same issue, which is why I recommended that OP confirm everything is done correctly.

No snark in the above response, appreciate you looking out to try and help.
No worries. Just want to make sure folks are safe.
I hear ya on the no other options. Trailer manus never make it easy.


When we picked up our TT the dealer insisted on installing our WDH (which I didnt purchase through them), they had all kinds of things wrong. Luckily I only had to tow home 30mins on easy roads and fixed it at the house. That thing towed horribly.

L brackets were too high
L Brackets were too close to hitch
Nothing was torqued to spec
 

Turin

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Here is what I dislike about it [Husky Centerline TS]:
  1. This thing is loud at slow speeds. [...]
  2. The bars were not long enough for my trailer. [...]
  3. Installing/removing the bars makes a lot of noise, and is kind of a pain. [...]
#1 and #3 are common complaints about friction-type hitches. Not having to deal with them is one of the things I love about my ProPride 3P. The bars stay installed and because sway control is handled via the hitch geometry rather than friction it's quiet. The main downside (other than price) is reduced ground clearance. As for #2, while installation of the hitch itself doesn't require drilling into the frame, it isn't uncommon to need to move your propane tanks. There's no cutting and welding involved in that, though — just drilling a few holes and filling the old ones.
 

Bombaman

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@BurnMac42

If your in that price range, also look at the Camco Eaz-Lift R6 and the Curt TruTrack 4P. (Most RV Dealers should have or be able to get either). R6 has some of the best tounge ground clerance, and the curt has a different take on the tilt pin.
 

BurnMac42

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@BurnMac42

If your in that price range, also look at the Camco Eaz-Lift R6 and the Curt TruTrack 4P. (Most RV Dealers should have or be able to get either). R6 has some of the best tounge ground clerance, and the curt has a different take on the tilt pin.

That seems to be the general price range without jumping up to a Hensley/Proride correct?
 

Bombaman

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Yeah, there are plenty of options in the $600-$1000 price range, with weight distrobution its much of a muchness, but all have slight differences on how they tackle managing sway.
 

Ktm2smoker

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I second (or third or ....) the 'use it for the sway control'. On my 3500 DRW my 31' camper only drops the rear 1.25". But she'll sway in the wind behind me though I don't feel anything compared to when I was towing with an F250. So I hooked up the Reese WD hitch I had with the F250 and sway is virtually eliminated as before. Rear sag pretty much doesn't move on this truck at the same setting (drop went to 1" from 1.25"). On my F250 the same setting would level my F250 from over 3" of sag.

Summary: Don't need it for leveling on a 3500 but still helpful with trailer sway especially in high winds.
 

SL1

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I have a 2021 ram 2500 with the diesel. I typically tow a 25 ft 6000 pound(loaded) travel trailer. Bed usually has about 400lbs cargo as well. I tried the husky centerline that worked great on my previous 1/2 ton and couldn't make i work even after a longer drop shank and resetting everything. That thing would pogo after every bump in the road. By the time I got it to ride decent I had no weight on the bars. At the advise of a longtime camper I added the timbrens and I ended up buying a bulletproof hitch with the sway bar attachment and it tows great. I have the ability to add a friction bar(or two)if its windy, however I haven't used those yet. I typically travel with a 1/2 tank of water in the trailer so my tongue weight is more then adequate and the trailer is only 1/2 inch hitch heavy . With this setup my frontend come up 1/4 inch and truck steers and handle like a champ. Im very pleased with it overall. I think the best thing these rv manufacturers could do is move the wheels back just a bit on these trailers and it would help the handling of these trailers a bunch. It seems they keep trying to lessen the tongue weight for the smaller vehicles and are creating a other problems. Hope you get it worked out for your particular rig and let us know what you do to cure the issue.
 

BigDaddyKong

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The best setup I have ever used was the Reese Dual Cam hitch. When using a flat bar friction type hitch, if your not of perfect level ground, you have to lift the rear wheels of the truck off the ground with the tongue jack to get the bars out when unhitching. They are also very noisy. If you use a plain sway bar, that takes adjustments to keep it working properly. You don't have that with the Reese setup. No adjustments, a lot quieter, and hitch up and unhitch.
 

Redfour5

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Alright guys after owning a 40ft 5er last year, went to a 32 ft Class C this year, we are about to trade the Class C in for a Grand Design Travel trailer. With that being said, I'm assuming I'll need a WDH. Here are the specs/models:

Tow Rig: 2020 Ram 3500 CTD Megacab SRW

Travel Trailers: Grand Design Imagine 2910BH. 33'11" Long and 7,087 lbs UVW
Grand Design Transcend 265BH . 32'9" Long and 6,327 lbs UVW
Grand Design Transcend 297QB 35'11" Long and 7,190 lbs UVW **This one is further down our list but figured it being the longest/heaviest include it just in case.

So I know nothing about WDH/anti-sway hitches. Can I backup with these things or will I need to disconnect prior to backing up? Do you guys use 10% of the GVWR of the rig to base your WDH rating? Lastly (and let me know if I'm forgetting something) any brand/specific hitch recommendations? Right now I've got the B&W 7" drop hideaway hitch on the truck.....

Thanks!

- Matt
I tow a 28 foot TT with one slide at around 7K loaded and 800 hitch weight. I use the 10K Fastway E2 WDH. I COULD get by without a WDH, and have towed without it on short runs and this is the difference. With a WDH, the entire set up will feel more "planted" on the road as a WDH sort of makes the trailer and truck effectively "one thing" in the way it connects the two. It makes the driving easier for you on a long day. Without a WDH, the trailer will act more "on its own" and will "tug" and "wallow" a bit and put more weight on your hitch possibly raising the front a bit. You will also feel wind gusts a bit more.

I have a 2500 and it is not a real problem for me without a hitch and certainly wouldn't be on a 3500 but when I had a 1500, it sure was. The best WDH's will have four point "friction" and are the most stable. The Equalizer is one of these. They also make the Fastway E2 which is only a two point friction WDH but is perfect for what I do and a whole lot less expensive so no need for overkill on an HD unless, maybe you are going full tow rating and upper end payload. YES with a bar based system, you can back up but not with a chain based system. I personally would avoid chain versions like the plague but to each their own. Staying within 10 to 15% of GVWR is highly recommended. HD trucks are forgiving in comparison to half tons in the respect of %'s as they are designed to tow and more robust all the way around. The truck will always be in charge at the weights you are talking about.

I traded in a 1500 for a 2500 for all these reasons. As noted, I have a 2500. Your trailer selections are not a big deal for either a 2500 or a 3500 but your rig is designed for much bigger loads than even a 2500 so that will play into your decision. You might even consider trying it without a WDH due to your truck capabilities as you can always buy one if you want. Oh, you will have a serious "drop" on your hitch to get level for the trailer. Get a good drop hitch irrespective of a WDH or not but if you get one ensure it will work with a WDH. I think that is the norm. You do want to be as level as possible for a couple of reasons including safety (weird dynamics on the trailer suspension/throwing manure right into the underneath of the trailer), not wanting to look like a doofus who doesn't know what they are doing driving down the road and most importantly, being able to do an overnight without having to unhook and being able to put a slide out...
 
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Mooree

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Installing a sway bar on a travel trailer does not end with the tightening of the last fasteners. You must also run some tests to determine if you need to adjust the sway bar for a travel trailer. Load your travel trailer, observing its weight limits. Connect it to your tow vehicle and take it for a drive at a safe speed of 40 to 50 miles per hour. Have someone look at your travel trailer’s movements or actions. Try turning your vehicle and observing how your travel trailer behaves. Park on flat and firm ground, and look for the tension screws on the sway bar. Twist the screw about a quarter-turn to the left or right to decrease or increase the tension.
 
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whitexc

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This is what I use....and is for sale actually. Going 5th wheel and don't need this for the other trailers I own. PM for details.

Bulletproof 2.5" extended shank (so tailgate drops) with 8" drop and their WD adapter. The WD is Fastway E2 and works great with our 7500# 31' TT.
06587acac2a90afda933be475948dff3.jpg
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Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk
 
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