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School me on WDH/Anti-sway

BurnMac42

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Alright guys after owning a 40ft 5er last year, went to a 32 ft Class C this year, we are about to trade the Class C in for a Grand Design Travel trailer. With that being said, I'm assuming I'll need a WDH. Here are the specs/models:

Tow Rig: 2020 Ram 3500 CTD Megacab SRW

Travel Trailers: Grand Design Imagine 2910BH. 33'11" Long and 7,087 lbs UVW
Grand Design Transcend 265BH . 32'9" Long and 6,327 lbs UVW
Grand Design Transcend 297QB 35'11" Long and 7,190 lbs UVW **This one is further down our list but figured it being the longest/heaviest include it just in case.

So I know nothing about WDH/anti-sway hitches. Can I backup with these things or will I need to disconnect prior to backing up? Do you guys use 10% of the GVWR of the rig to base your WDH rating? Lastly (and let me know if I'm forgetting something) any brand/specific hitch recommendations? Right now I've got the B&W 7" drop hideaway hitch on the truck.....

Thanks!

- Matt
 

Plum Cra Zy

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Alright guys after owning a 40ft 5er last year, went to a 32 ft Class C this year, we are about to trade the Class C in for a Grand Design Travel trailer. With that being said, I'm assuming I'll need a WDH. Here are the specs/models:

Tow Rig: 2020 Ram 3500 CTD Megacab SRW

Travel Trailers: Grand Design Imagine 2910BH. 33'11" Long and 7,087 lbs UVW
Grand Design Transcend 265BH . 32'9" Long and 6,327 lbs UVW
Grand Design Transcend 297QB 35'11" Long and 7,190 lbs UVW **This one is further down our list but figured it being the longest/heaviest include it just in case.

So I know nothing about WDH/anti-sway hitches. Can I backup with these things or will I need to disconnect prior to backing up? Do you guys use 10% of the GVWR of the rig to base your WDH rating? Lastly (and let me know if I'm forgetting something) any brand/specific hitch recommendations? Right now I've got the B&W 7" drop hideaway hitch on the truck.....

Thanks!

- Matt
I've never seen one, but Hensley is supposed to be "the best"? Sway and weight dist.
 

H3LZSN1P3R

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I prefer not using a WDH the truck can handle the weight without them... i tow many trailers and have yet to beed a WDH other than when towing with a 1/2 ton

No you dont need to remove to back up
 

jetrinka

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What is each trailers gross weight and tongue weight? I'd guess that with a 3500 you really wouldn't "need" a WDH but may want one for comfort.

I have (very) limited experience with trailers and WDH. However we just picked up a little travel trailer (just under 4k empty). I put a WDH on my truck as the PW is very soft. It is a Husky Centerline TS. I can tell you the truck hauls this trailer around better with the WDH than my 3500 gross utility trailer completely loaded down without the WDH. It doesn't sway and the truck is just way better composed with the WDH. I don't regret it.

The Husky hitch is noisy in slow corners as it uses a lot of friction to counteract sway which leads to creaking and groaning when turning but I am ok with that. Its easy to set up too.

I don't have to remove anything to back up with it.

Any chance I could get to spread the tongue weight load between the trailer axle and the front axle on the truck I'd take it.
 

99mo

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I have the Husky Round Bar WDH. It has attachable sway bars. I used it on my 1/2 ton. That one you have to remove the sway bars when you back up. Otherwise, you could bend them. I don't know about other brands, but with the Husky round bar you it is recommended that you remove them prior to backing up.
 

TinGoatTravelers

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It depends on what you want to accomplish. With the 3500 Cummins your tongue for those trailers (probably 1000# ish) isn’t going to point your headlights to the sky. But I had a Chevy 2500 Duramax and my 1040# tongue weight still lifted over 500# off the front end. A WDH will put some of that back on your truck’s steer axle to keep it planted and not mess with your steering geometry.

Hensley was mentioned earlier. Hensley’s design (which you can buy in a Hensley product or a ProPride product) eliminates sway (because the trailer doesn’t pivot on the ball but through a 4-point trapezoid that virtually projects the pivot point roughly to your truck’s rear axle). ProPride is the more recent version with some nice improvements and innovations that make it more desirable in my opinion. It will feel much more like a 5th wheel ride you’re used to and also gives you WD capability.

Only con: very expensive - about $3K new.

I use the ProPride for my 27FB Airstream and 2500 Hemi but I’m not affiliated with either company.

Good luck!
 

cj8rockcrawler

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I've used a few now with my 22 3500 SRW Megacab... Equalizer, Anderson and now Propride with my 29 foot, 8000 lbs dry ATC Toyhauler.

The Anderson worked great with my 24 foot enclosed car hauler, but couldn't provide the same level of control for my 29ft. The Equalizer worked well with the 29 footer, but the propride is a whole different level. We just completed a 3000 mile trip with it in complete comfort... with mostly relaxed 1 handed driving. They are pretty stout units and simple to work on, so I wouldn't be afraid of looking for a used one. That's what I did and have been very happy.

I actually have a Hensley that I'll be putting up for sale soon. I just haven't gotten around to it yet.
 

Bombaman

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+1 to @cj8rockcrawler and @TinGoatTravelers
I have a ProPride for my ~7200lb 33ft trailer. I tow it behind a 3500 DRW Long Bed. Just (litterally this weekend) picked it up from the dealer after some service work to drive the 13 hours home. Initially just hooked it up to the B&W Tow&Stow, (as I had to take my ProPride off for the dealer to move it around the yard) but after 2 hours I re-installed my ProPride at a rest stop in just over an hour. Remaining 9 hours were a breeze.

Even with a DRW and the ProPride, you still feel larger trucks (you cant eliminate physics) but with the ProPride its like maybe 20% of the movement compared to just being on the ball.

If you are looking at the ProPride, they have 60 days returns from the time its installed. It takes a few goes to get it fully dialed in, and use to getting the stinger in the main, but after that its a breeze.
 

Bcrouse

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Its not the weight…its the pulling a giant 32-35’ box on wheels down the highway. Wind has a lot of force on it, be it manmade or natural.

Id guess youre going to be between 800-900lbs tongue weight loaded minus the freshwater tank filled. That would add another 200-300lbs depending on capacity and placement.

Bumper pull also has a bit more leverage on your tow vehicle than a 5/GN based on weight placement.

I have a weigh-safe wdh that im using with our Expedition till my ordered truck arrives. Really happy with how its worked. Very important to keep an eye on tongue weight with the Expo too.

You can back up with it fully attached. It does make noise as it is friction based for sway control.
 

reese917

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I think you will be perfectly happy with a properly adjusted Equalizer hitch. As others have said you don’t “need” it with a 3500 but it will still tighten everything up and be more comfortable in high winds or passing semi’s. The Hensley is an amazing system but overkill for you imo.

You can back-up easily and do not need to disconnect anything. It is true that friction-type systems like the Equalizer I recommend can make noise and “creaking” but that can be greatly reduced with friction pads, lubrication, and proper adjustment. You won’t need to have the hitch super “tight” like you would with a 1500.
 

UglyViking

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I have very little experience with WDHs, having owned only one that was mentioned above, the Husky Centerline TS. I've owned my trailer (32' Salem) for about a little over a year, and have taken only 4 local 3 day trips and 3 week trip cross country to Montana.

The hitch works well for reducing sway. There may be better options, this could be the same as all the others, or hey maybe this is the best on the market for sway control? I have no idea because, again, only experience with this single hitch.

Here is what I dislike about it:
  1. As previously mentioned, this thing is loud at slow speeds. Pulling into fuel stops with tight turns, or pulling into camp and you are getting looks. I hate this beyond everything else, in part because I hate noises like this, but also in part because I feel like everyone is watching and judging my ability to tow a trailer. The worst part though, is that if you're doing a long trip and pull into a campground late at night, guaranteed you're waking at least your neighbor, and possibly two neighbors down.
  2. The bars were not long enough for my trailer. I don't know how common this is, or if it was just my particular trailer, but the bars were too short, this caused them to pop out with any turn that was more than, say 35-40°. This means that tight turns are a no go, which can be challenging with a 20 foot truck and 34+ foot trailer (with hitch and such) in certain locations. Because of that I also felt like I couldn't really back it up without removing the bars. That means, every site where you're gonna backup into, you're raising the hitch, unloading the bars, dropping the hitch, then backing up, all to do it over again the next morning. This isn't a huge deal for a longer stay, but when you're trying to make it out to Montana, with a pregnant wife, a potty training 2 year old, 2 dogs and are trying to get your truck and trailer setup in the pouring rain at the campsite so you can have AC for a single night, well… it's a bit annoying. Again, this could be just my trailer, but I'd try and confirm before you buy, as mine was supposedly installed by the dealer the previous owner bought the camper from.
  3. Installing/removing the bars makes a lot of noise, and is kind of a paint. I don't know if this is common across WDHs or not, but you've got to really reef the thing to get these bars on and off. Unless you're raising the jack to basically max height, you're gonna be working out. Not something I think my wife could do as she doesn't have that good ole country strength. Anyway, you're making a ton of noise doing this, metal bar reefing on the sway bars, they pop and screech and all sorts of stuff. On multiple occasions, if I pull in late, I don't even disconnect them, I just leave it because otherwise I'd wake up the whole campsite.
Again, I've got no clue if the Husky is the absolute best on the market, or if there are better options. I know that I'll be looking for another option if I stay in a travel trailer though!
 

flan

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I have the equalizer for my 27’ travel trailer and it pretty much eliminates sway and puts the truck back to near its unloaded look. It does cream and groan depending on how much weight distributing you put into it but pads are available to help with that if it bothers you.
 

Brianmp01

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I have a blue ox set up and I really like it, if you have FB check market place you can find them a lot cheaper. Just make sure you get the right load bars for your setup
 

arx237

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Installing/removing the bars makes a lot of noise, and is kind of a paint. I don't know if this is common across WDHs or not, but you've got to really reef the thing to get these bars on and off.
So far these have been worth it for me. Super quick and a whole hell of a lot more controlled and safe feeling when trying to remove or install the bars.

Lippert 335852 Straptek Weight Tension Technology Kit https://a.co/d/147f5ob

Installed on blue ox that came with the camper.
 

Bombaman

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Only issue with the Straptek's, is they can only be used with systems with another method of Sway Control/Prevention. As if you have a 2 or 4 P anti-sway, the friction against the L brackets is apart of the anti-sway.
 

BurnMac42

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Thanks for all the info dudes! Some more info:

We decided to go with the Transcend Xplor 265BH. Specs the GVWR on the trailer is 7995 lbs so call it 8k for round numbers. According to e-trailer they recommended these three hitches specifically for the 265BH:

1. Equalizer WDH w/4-point Sway control, 12,000 GTW, 1,200 lbs TW - EQ37120ET
2. Blue Ox TrackPro WDH w/ Sway Control - 7 Hole Shank - 13K GTW, 1.3 TW - BLU27FR
3. Blue Ox TrackPro WDH w/ Sway Control - 7 Hole Shank- Underslung 13K GTW, 1.3 TW BLU35FR

The Blue Ox's are both identically priced at $660....the Equalizer is just shy of $1k. Any reason why the Blue Ox is so much cheaper than the Equalizer? Just brand recognition or any performance characteristics that makes the $350 jump worth it?
 

jsalbre

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I full-timed it in a 30’ Airstream (actually 31’6”) for a bit over a year and nearly 40k miles of towing, pulling it with a 2020 CCSB Hemi. I used an Equalizer and it was great. The truck had no problem with squat when it was straight on the ball, but the Equalizer nearly eliminated sway. 30+ feet of trailer catches a lot of air from passing semis.

Whatever hitch you use, make sure you thoroughly understand what should and should not be lubricated, and make sure your torquing all the bolts to spec. A lot of people with Equalizers end up lubing the contact points between the bars and the L brackets on the trailer, but you’re not supposed to and it basically eliminates the sway control.
 

Bcrouse

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I have very little experience with WDHs, having owned only one that was mentioned above, the Husky Centerline TS. I've owned my trailer (32' Salem) for about a little over a year, and have taken only 4 local 3 day trips and 3 week trip cross country to Montana.

The hitch works well for reducing sway. There may be better options, this could be the same as all the others, or hey maybe this is the best on the market for sway control? I have no idea because, again, only experience with this single hitch.

Here is what I dislike about it:
  1. As previously mentioned, this thing is loud at slow speeds. Pulling into fuel stops with tight turns, or pulling into camp and you are getting looks. I hate this beyond everything else, in part because I hate noises like this, but also in part because I feel like everyone is watching and judging my ability to tow a trailer. The worst part though, is that if you're doing a long trip and pull into a campground late at night, guaranteed you're waking at least your neighbor, and possibly two neighbors down.
  2. The bars were not long enough for my trailer. I don't know how common this is, or if it was just my particular trailer, but the bars were too short, this caused them to pop out with any turn that was more than, say 35-40°. This means that tight turns are a no go, which can be challenging with a 20 foot truck and 34+ foot trailer (with hitch and such) in certain locations. Because of that I also felt like I couldn't really back it up without removing the bars. That means, every site where you're gonna backup into, you're raising the hitch, unloading the bars, dropping the hitch, then backing up, all to do it over again the next morning. This isn't a huge deal for a longer stay, but when you're trying to make it out to Montana, with a pregnant wife, a potty training 2 year old, 2 dogs and are trying to get your truck and trailer setup in the pouring rain at the campsite so you can have AC for a single night, well… it's a bit annoying. Again, this could be just my trailer, but I'd try and confirm before you buy, as mine was supposedly installed by the dealer the previous owner bought the camper from.
  3. Installing/removing the bars makes a lot of noise, and is kind of a paint. I don't know if this is common across WDHs or not, but you've got to really reef the thing to get these bars on and off. Unless you're raising the jack to basically max height, you're gonna be working out. Not something I think my wife could do as she doesn't have that good ole country strength. Anyway, you're making a ton of noise doing this, metal bar reefing on the sway bars, they pop and screech and all sorts of stuff. On multiple occasions, if I pull in late, I don't even disconnect them, I just leave it because otherwise I'd wake up the whole campsite.
Again, I've got no clue if the Husky is the absolute best on the market, or if there are better options. I know that I'll be looking for another option if I stay in a travel trailer though!
Point #2, it means your L brackets on the trailer are not installed correctly. The install directions should give you a range from hitch center. For instance mine was 25-32”. I have mine set at 30” from the center of the hitch. It gives you an acceptable range as there might be wiring or propane lines you want to avoid.
 

Bcrouse

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Point #2, it means your L brackets on the trailer are not installed correctly. The install directions should give you a range from hitch center. For instance mine was 25-32”. I have mine set at 30” from the center of the hitch. It gives you an acceptable range as there might be wiring or propane lines you want to avoid.
Your install directions say:
“Install frame bracket 28.5”-30.5” away from the center of ball socket on coupler.” Page #13 of the install manual

 

UglyViking

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Point #2, it means your L brackets on the trailer are not installed correctly. The install directions should give you a range from hitch center. For instance mine was 25-32”. I have mine set at 30” from the center of the hitch. It gives you an acceptable range as there might be wiring or propane lines you want to avoid.
Appreciate it, but I'm already aware of it. Due to the layout of the hitch on the trailer there is a battery box mount and propane tank in the way. So the only option would have been to cut, move and reweld one or both of the battery and propane mounts. I wasn't sure how much the wife and I would like the trailer, or like camper life overall, so we decided to deal. It wasn't a huge issue locally, but it became a problem on the road.

Again, I'm not sure how many trailers will have this issue, but at least for my trailer, there is no way it would have fit from the factory without cutting and welding. I don't know how many trailers have the same issue, which is why I recommended that OP confirm everything is done correctly.

No snark in the above response, appreciate you looking out to try and help.
 

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