Price negotiated from MSRP

[DRAGRAM]

Picked up this Ram 3500 today at Mark Dodge sold to me by Anthony Boi. $16,750 off MSRP. They charge $425 for a Doc fee and that is it (besides California Tax and License). In my case I wanted a specific set of Options and Mark Dodge was in fact one of only a very few Dealers that had a Truck I would buy. DONE! I drove 1700 miles and traded in my 21 Ram 3500, which they gave me $40K in trade. Trade value was within KBB trade in range so it was fair. ZERO issues when I got there. Truck was 100% ready and I switched all my belongings into the new truck and was gone in 45 minutes.

 

[HAMMER77777]

Picked up this Ram 3500 today at Mark Dodge sold to me by Anthony Boi. $16,750 off MSRP. They charge $425 for a Doc fee and that is it (besides California Tax and License). In my case I wanted a specific set of Options and Mark Dodge was in fact one of only a very few Dealers that had a Truck I would buy. DONE! I drove 1700 miles and traded in my 21 Ram 3500, which they gave me $40K in trade. Trade value was within KBB trade in range so it was fair. ZERO issues when I got there. Truck was 100% ready and I switched all my belongings into the new truck and was gone in 45 minutes.

View attachment 80690

Isn't $400 high for doc Fees? You didn't want to run the "no Doc Fees, just give me the out the door price" spiel? Anyone glad u got what u wanted

 

[RichM752]

Picked up this Ram 3500 today at Mark Dodge sold to me by Anthony Boi. $16,750 off MSRP. They charge $425 for a Doc fee and that is it (besides California Tax and License). In my case I wanted a specific set of Options and Mark Dodge was in fact one of only a very few Dealers that had a Truck I would buy. DONE! I drove 1700 miles and traded in my 21 Ram 3500, which they gave me $40K in trade. Trade value was within KBB trade in range so it was fair. ZERO issues when I got there. Truck was 100% ready and I switched all my belongings into the new truck and was gone in 45 minutes.

View attachment 80690

My experience with MD was near identical. I opted to have truck shipped to Sacramento for $1600 and sold my 16 locally for high KBB. Well I guess not so identical , as I had mine built. 50 days from day of order until truck was on the lot in Lake Charles. Never the less it was a painless experience.

 

[Bighoof]

Isn't $400 high for doc Fees? You didn't want to run the "no Doc Fees, just give me the out the door price" spiel? Anyone glad u got what u wanted

$400 is pretty average. VA and MD usually charge close to a grand. Granger is about $180 though.

 

[ErikTheRed]

Isn't $400 high for doc Fees? You didn't want to run the "no Doc Fees, just give me the out the door price" spiel? Anyone glad u got what u wanted

If the dealership is giving you a $16000 discount and your next best offer was only half that, are you really gonna gripe about a $400 doc fee?

 

[HAMMER77777]

If the dealership is giving you a $16000 discount and your next best offer was only half that, are you really gonna gripe about a $400 doc fee?

This whole premise of $16 G Discount, is while technically true, a bit misleading. Nobody should ever even consider MSRP as a realistic starting point. I would even Say the same thing about "Invoice price" (FWP). See attached. My starting point is always "Holdback below invoice price". I email about 20 dealers asking which one would give me Invoice minus Holdback. Invariably, a few dealers will always agree. And in my initial email spiel that I blast out to several dealers, I make it clear that I don't Pay doc fees, or any other non-essential fee. I simply ask for an "out the door" price of Invoice minus Holdback minus Rebates. If one dealer doesn't agree, another one will.
But again, to each his own. If people are OK Paying $400, then you do you. Just an observation.

This attachment is about a Decade old, but you can see, that he was willing to give up his entire Holdback (listed on the document as HB), below Invoice (FWP) price. He mentioned to me, that since he gets Quarterly Bonuses anyway, he doesn't mind parting ways with his entire HB.

 

[HAMMER77777]

$400 is pretty average. VA and MD usually charge close to a grand. Granger is about $180 though.

Wait, just so I'm clear, you're referring to a dealer's doc fee, right? Because that wouldn't really be state-specific, no? You mentioned VA/MD, that's why I was asking if you're referring to some kind of state specific DMV type fee, or just a general dealer's fee.

 

[usafakid09]

Wait, just so I'm clear, you're referring to a dealer's doc fee, right? Because that wouldn't really be state-specific, no? You mentioned VA/MD, that's why I was asking if you're referring to some kind of state specific DMV type fee, or just a general dealer's fee.

You buy anything since about mid 2020? I have not come across any dealer that does not charge a doc fee. If you insist on not paying it, they will happily hide it somewhere else in the deal.

 

[HAMMER77777]

You buy anything since about mid 2020? I have not come across any dealer that does not charge a doc fee. If you insist on not paying it, they will happily hide it somewhere else in the deal.

Please see my other post in this thread. With my style of negotiations, there is nowhere else for them to hide anything.
My starting point is always "Holdback below invoice price". I email about 20 dealers asking which one would give me Invoice minus Holdback. Invariably, a few dealers will always agree. And in my initial email spiel that I blast out to several dealers, I make it clear that I don't Pay doc fees, or any other non-essential fee. I simply ask for an "out the door" price of Invoice minus Holdback minus Rebates. If one dealer doesn't agree, another one will.

You're right, that I haven't bought one since 2020. But if I ever did, I'd insist on no doc fees, or anything else other than Invoice minus Holdback minus Rebates. In fact, since I usually buy from MT, I don't even Pay the dealer any sales Tax (although I end up having to Pay Tax anyway, at the DMV, when I register in ND).

Please see attached. Happy New Year!

 

[usafakid09]

Please see my other post in this thread. With my style of negotiations, there is nowhere else for them to hide anything.
My starting point is always "Holdback below invoice price". I email about 20 dealers asking which one would give me Invoice minus Holdback. Invariably, a few dealers will always agree. And in my initial email spiel that I blast out to several dealers, I make it clear that I don't Pay doc fees, or any other non-essential fee. I simply ask for an "out the door" price of Invoice minus Holdback minus Rebates. If one dealer doesn't agree, another one will.

You're right, that I haven't bought one since 2020. But if I ever did, I'd insist on no doc fees, or anything else other than Invoice minus Holdback minus Rebates. In fact, since I usually buy from MT, I don't even Pay the dealer any sales Tax (although I end up having to Pay Tax anyway, at the DMV, when I register in ND).

I've seen your posts. And I have know a thing or two about the new car business. With your "style," the $500 doc fee would just be that much less off of your "holdback below invoice price."

In the car business, they are hundreds of ways to itemize the price of a vehicle. I know what my bottom line is and as long as it is met, I couldn't care less what the itemized charges are.

 

[HAMMER77777]

I've seen your posts. And I have know a thing or two about the new car business. With your "style," the $500 doc fee would just be that much less off of your "holdback below invoice price."

In the car business, they are hundreds of ways to itemize the price of a vehicle. I know what my bottom line is and as long as it is met, I couldn't care less what the itemized charges are.

That would be impossible for them to hide, because I can see in writing, how much Invoice is (HWP) and how much HB is. So I'm not sure how they would be able to slip $500 extra in there. That attachment I put in those posts is an official document, that I could verify independently online. The FWP and HB Numbers, simply are what They are. But hey, if you have some way of getting such a fee past me, then kudos to you, I guess.

 

[usafakid09]

That would be impossible for them to hide, because I can see in writing, how much Invoice is (HWP) and how much HB is. So I'm not sure how they would be able to slip $500 extra in there. That attachment I put in those posts is an official document, that I could verify independently online. The FWP and HB Numbers, simply are what They are. But hey, if you have some way of getting such a fee past me, then kudos to you, I guess.

Instead of applying some rebates I might have that are availble, I probably wouldn't on your deal since you'd insist on all of my holdback. There are several incentives dealers have at their disposal from the manufacturer to get deals through...I just wouldn't use them all on yours. For example, on my recent purchase, dealer had some $5k in additional coupons that they applied to my deal for me to get my 17% off. Add that with me getting my trade to a number that essentially made my tax liability $0, I didn't have any problem not quibbling over a $464 doc fee (they they use to pay their outside title clerk). Had I insisted on invoice minus HB, that's what I would have gotten and it would've been a worse deal. Not that difficult. Any "starting number" is arbitrary whether its MSRP or inovoice or whatever. Some customers can't see the forest for the trees...

 

[HAMMER77777]

Instead of applying some rebates I might have that are availble, I probably wouldn't on your deal since you'd insist on all of my holdback. There are several incentives dealers have at their disposal from the manufacturer to get deals through...I just wouldn't use them all on yours. For example, on my recent purchase, dealer had some $5k in additional coupons that they applied to my deal for me to get my 17% off. Add that with me getting my trade to a number that essentially made my tax liability $0, I didn't have any problem not quibbling over a $464 doc fee (they they use to pay their outside title clerk). Had I insisted on invoice minus HB, that's what I would have gotten and it would've been a worse deal. Not that difficult. Any "starting number" is arbitrary whether its MSRP or inovoice or whatever. Some customers can't see the forest for the trees...

Um, OK. I just stated how I do it. Of course, you do you. Just from my POV, I don't do any trading in, so that's how I did it. As for Rebates, the dealer I used was quite "Creative". Of course I got the usual Rebate, but he suggested to me, to join "Snow and Ice management" (basically a group for Snow plowers, or something). Am I a professional Snow plower? Nope. Have I ever plowed Snow or do I intend to? Nope, but if I joined that organization for $100 Bucks (at least back then), I would get another Grand Rebate for being a member! He also Told me to get a business EIN, or whatever it's called, because I'd get another Grand for being a "business" owner. He found another Rebate for owning a competitor's vehicle. He was quite Creative in "finding" Rebates, so I thought he was actually quite helpful. Of course, YMMV.

 

[Brutal_HO]

Please see my other post in this thread. With my style of negotiations, there is nowhere else for them to hide anything.
My starting point is always "Holdback below invoice price". I email about 20 dealers asking which one would give me Invoice minus Holdback. Invariably, a few dealers will always agree. And in my initial email spiel that I blast out to several dealers, I make it clear that I don't Pay doc fees, or any other non-essential fee. I simply ask for an "out the door" price of Invoice minus Holdback minus Rebates. If one dealer doesn't agree, another one will.

You're right, that I haven't bought one since 2020. But if I ever did, I'd insist on no doc fees, or anything else other than Invoice minus Holdback minus Rebates. In fact, since I usually buy from MT, I don't even Pay the dealer any sales Tax (although I end up having to Pay Tax anyway, at the DMV, when I register in ND).

Please see attached. Happy New Year!

3.24% off invoice?

LOL, anyone can get that without trying.

The lead is invoice - holdback - $500 and then have the dealers compete from there.

 

[Brutal_HO]

Picked up this Ram 3500 today at Mark Dodge sold to me by Anthony Boi. $16,750 off MSRP. They charge $425 for a Doc fee and that is it (besides California Tax and License). In my case I wanted a specific set of Options and Mark Dodge was in fact one of only a very few Dealers that had a Truck I would buy. DONE! I drove 1700 miles and traded in my 21 Ram 3500, which they gave me $40K in trade. Trade value was within KBB trade in range so it was fair. ZERO issues when I got there. Truck was 100% ready and I switched all my belongings into the new truck and was gone in 45 minutes.

View attachment 80690

You got a GREAT deal.

 

[Thisnthat]

invoice price and giving up all their holdback will work at the dealers who are willing to deal - which these days that should be most (ignoring any rebates or odd combination thereof). The reason so many on here keep bringing up Mark Dodge is because they were (guessing still are) beating invoice - holdback by almost a couple grand

here's my example -



invoice price was $68,373, minus the holdback would put it at $66,233. Mark Dodge's price was $64,733, so $1500 under invoice and holdback.

I ended up getting another $500 off for being an affiliate member so by the time I also paid the doc fee I was in the ballpark of $64,500. Back in 2022 there also weren't any rebates...so it was just straight discount. If I had gone in asking only for their holdback I'd had lost out on almost $2k.

 

[Thisnthat]

This is where most dealers either don't know what the volume dealers are doing or they aren't willing to give up the additional "profit". This is also simply the price at MD, no haggling or arm twisting, this type of discount is simply advertised on their website for their inventory these days, but most of the forum members who were buying from them during covid were ordering trucks as dealers didn't have any stock inventory. If any dealer did have inventory it was because they were adding $10-15k market adjustments over MSRP.

Understand your thoughts on the doc fees, but some states "require" a doc fee to be shown, some states don't, and then in most states there is a max doc fee that can be charged, which it's almost unheard of for a dealer to not charge the max as long as it's not something crazy like $799. Think the max where I live is $189 because that is what all the dealers charge. I personally didn't have any problem paying an extra $200+ in a doc fee over what my local dealer charges to save $2k...and back then it was closer to $4k because they weren't dipping into HB during covid

Since you're in the north, you could at least get a quote from MD...but then also try Granger in Granger, Iowa...they used to be pretty similar to MD price wise and you'd have members buying from the dealer that was closest. Neither of them need any arm twisting to get the price that'll blow the local dealers out of the water, either build one and ask for a quote or inquire about one on their website.

 

[HAMMER77777]

3.24% off invoice?

LOL, anyone can get that without trying.

The lead is invoice - holdback - $500 and then have the dealers compete from there.

Good to Know. I'll use that next Time!

invoice price and giving up all their holdback will work at the dealers who are willing to deal - which these days that should be most (ignoring any rebates or odd combination thereof). The reason so many on here keep bringing up Mark Dodge is because they were (guessing still are) beating invoice - holdback by almost a couple grand

here's my example -

View attachment 80760

invoice price was $68,373, minus the holdback would put it at $66,233. Mark Dodge's price was $64,733, so $1500 under invoice and holdback.

I ended up getting another $500 off for being an affiliate member so by the time I also paid the doc fee I was in the ballpark of $64,500. Back in 2022 there also weren't any rebates...so it was just straight discount. If I had gone in asking only for their holdback I'd had lost out on almost $2k.

That is definitely good! No argument here.

This is where most dealers either don't know what the volume dealers are doing or they aren't willing to give up the additional "profit". This is also simply the price at MD, no haggling or arm twisting, this type of discount is simply advertised on their website for their inventory these days, but most of the forum members who were buying from them during covid were ordering trucks as dealers didn't have any stock inventory. If any dealer did have inventory it was because they were adding $10-15k market adjustments over MSRP.

Understand your thoughts on the doc fees, but some states "require" a doc fee to be shown, some states don't, and then in most states there is a max doc fee that can be charged, which it's almost unheard of for a dealer to not charge the max as long as it's not something crazy like $799. Think the max where I live is $189 because that is what all the dealers charge. I personally didn't have any problem paying an extra $200+ in a doc fee over what my local dealer charges to save $2k...and back then it was closer to $4k because they weren't dipping into HB during covid

Since you're in the north, you could at least get a quote from MD...but then also try Granger in Granger, Iowa...they used to be pretty similar to MD price wise and you'd have members buying from the dealer that was closest. Neither of them need any arm twisting to get the price that'll blow the local dealers out of the water, either build one and ask for a quote or inquire about one on their website.

I will look at MD or Granger thanks!

 

[ErikTheRed]

I know what my bottom line is and as long as it is met, I couldn't care less what the itemized charges are.

Exactly. THIS is how to buy a new vehicle, and its what I've done for the last 30 years. Do your homework, do the math, know the FINAL price you're willing to pay-- OTD -- and let them move fees around till the cows come home. So long as that final number is MY number, I couldn't give a rat's fuzzy butt how they get there.

 

[DRAGRAM]

You got a GREAT deal.

Thank you. My three local dealers that I frequent won't even admit there are factory to dealer incentives (coupons) much less give me a strait up $10K dealer discount. It's like it's a big secret that they are hiding from consumers. I WOULD pay more to buy local, but this is a little bit rediculious. They also offered me $36K for my Truck and Mark Dodge gave me $40K. I was super worried they might nit pick my Trade when I got there and I honestly don't think they ever looked at it. Now I am home with 1700 break in miles and I am ready to tow back to TX to race in a couple weeks. I was real careful with break in. Country roads < 55MPH for the first couple hundred miles and then <65 up to 500 and then once every 100 miles after that I went WOT up to 90MPH or so. Plus varying speeds etc. I will say the dually is shockingly less MPG. Like 5 less. Hope that improves a little once I put her to work.