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Metalcloak Suspension Upgrade

jeepkevin

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My truck is a 21 2500 Crew, short bed, Hemi 4x4. I have Power Wagon front springs, Carli sway bar, Thuren track bar, off the shelf Fox shocks, rear 1" spacer under factory springs, Carli track bar bracket, adjustable rear track bar, and Fox rear shocks. I run Mickey Thompson Baja Boss At's in 295/70/18 on the factory 18" chrome clad steel wheels.I love it!! But I wanted to do a little something to improve on and off road ride.

I add the Metalcloak true front radius arms with the adjustable standard upper links, not the lock and load, and I bought all 4 of their rear arms.

In the front I dropped the front on the bump stops, adjusted the new arms to push the axle forward a touch, set back to ride height and set castor at 4.5. In the rear I matched all the new arms to the OEM length.

I have been following the Articulink discussion and these front arms add the 3rd busing to each side. The truck does flex and move more freely while off road. The rear arms now give the same feel.

On road you definitely can feel less feed back from the suspension. Small imperfections I no longer have the jar or jolt, larger bumps I seems to soak up much better.

The down side is the front arms allow less clearance at full turn. I now rub at full lock, just a little. I'm thinking adding slightly to the steering stops, not really interested in aftermarket wheels but that is still a thought.

The rear arms don't have a mount for the rear brake lines on the passenger side. It was simple enough to get a nice rubber clamp and make a small bracket.

I am very pleased over all with more comfort in daily driving.

I read a lot on hear and never say very much. I have found little to no info on people running their arms. I was not interested in their complete 4.5" kit, too big for me but their components can all be bought separately.

Check out their bushing design on their website. The comfort of an OEM rubber but the flex of a cartridge joint.
 

Crusty old shellback

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I took a look at their website. Looks like a good system.

You say you have less clearance for turning. Wondering if you may have gotten the lower arms on the wrong side? From looking at the pictures on their website, it looks like the mount for the upper arm is rotated in, so their should be no rubbing. Or is this not the case?
 

Crusty old shellback

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So I'm wondering how much better this system would be over the factory PW system with the Articulink and disconnect swaybar?
Would it give enough extra flex to make it worth the cost of admission?
Just reread your post and see you didn't opt for the lock and load link. So with that link, would it provide more flex that the factory PW set up?
From my short ramp test, I know disconnecting my front sway bar gives me a lot more flex.

Thanks for the pictures.
 

jeepkevin

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I want to flex it out, I will get some pics. I know that disconnection the sway bar with the stock arms added some comfort but with these arms it was too much body roll. The Carli sway bar really helps but on hard corners I do notice some body roll. I'm thinking about drilling an additional hole in the sway bar arm like Currie does so that I can increase the roll stiffness on the street. With the added compliance in the suspension I can start to feel a bit of bump steer when driving down older asphalt, the roads that kind of dip and roll around. I get a bit more feed back through the steering wheel. It is as if the relationship between the track bar and tie rod is not 100% in sync or optimized. It's not really bad or annoying but it is something I do notice.

I know admission isn't cheap but adding the arms certainly did free up the suspension movement. The factory bushings have to deform to allow flex whereas now the joints are designed to move. My butt doesn't lie!! Ha Ha!! Let me see if I can sneak out of work and flex it out.
 

jeepkevin

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Oh, and you notice I reversed the end link mounts on the Carli sway bar. Their notes say it wont work with stock wheels. The sidewall did contact to bolts on the sway bar arm. I swapped them around and changed up the hardware and no rub.
 

jeepkevin

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The biggest dirt mound in the yard! I won't have time today but I will try to remove a sway bar end link front and rear and do this again on the same spot.
 

Trail_Wagon

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The Metalcloak stuff looks nice, and I use their stuff for my jeep JL. When I took my PW off road, I was able to flex to the max of what the factory shocks could extend and compress. Longer shocks might start to push the limits of the articulink radius arms and I image the MC stuff has simular capabilities as the articulink just due to the natural binding that occurs with a radius arm... unless you get the lock and load... with that (and the sway bar disconnected), the only thing thats going to stop flex is the length of the shocks. There should be little to no bind anywhere in the suspension travel.
PXL_20220225_134839850.jpg
 

loveracing1988

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Those look just like the far from stock arms I've been considering... I guess there is another option for me to consider.
 

joshuaeb09

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How are you liking these after a year of having em on the truck ? Just ordered the front set in the same configuration you did to go on with my front thuren bits here in a few weeks. Really don't do much wheeling anymore outside of rough back roads and certain camping/getting to the water spots, but the roads here have gotten a lot worse so I figured why not do it to help with NVH/articulation after seeing this post a few times. I'll hold off on the rears until later on since they're a bit easier to swap out and I want to see what all I'll need to do for brake line clearance with the rear Carli backcountry shocks.
 

jeepkevin

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I'm at 26k miles now with now issues so far. I think my only real complaint is the Fox 2.0, the standard off the shelf application specific part numbers, seem a little on the firm side for a daily driver, I had Bilstein's before on last two 2500's and they were just a little more cushy. Now, big humpy intersections or something that pushes the truck, the Fox's really shine and soak it up nice. There is definitely value in the proper shock package for how you plan to use your truck.

No squeaks, no rattles, no change in any of the Metalcloak parts. The bushing design has held up very well. The gold finish has started to tarnish maybe just a little bit. I'm sure I can get under there and give them a good clean to bring back the shine.
 

joshuaeb09

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I'm at 26k miles now with now issues so far. I think my only real complaint is the Fox 2.0, the standard off the shelf application specific part numbers, seem a little on the firm side for a daily driver, I had Bilstein's before on last two 2500's and they were just a little more cushy. Now, big humpy intersections or something that pushes the truck, the Fox's really shine and soak it up nice. There is definitely value in the proper shock package for how you plan to use your truck.

No squeaks, no rattles, no change in any of the Metalcloak parts. The bushing design has held up very well. The gold finish has started to tarnish maybe just a little bit. I'm sure I can get under there and give them a good clean to bring back the shine.

Good to hear! I've used Core 4x4 in the past on these trucks for the rear 4 link, but I didn't like the added NVH from the joints when I wasn't flexing it out so the metalcloak joints were very interesting to me. I'll probably end up doing the rear's as well when I get bonused out at the end of the year.
 

joshuaeb09

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Dropped the truck off this morning to have mine installed. We're gonna push the axle forward about 1/4" so I can stop the minor rubbing the 315/70R18's have at full bump on part of the liners since I don't want to trim for a tall/fat 35". Also getting all my Thuren/Carli bits installed that I haven't put on the truck yet so looking forward to having all that done and back in a couple of days once my mechanic gets it knocked out.
 

slow roller

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Dropped the truck off this morning to have mine installed. We're gonna push the axle forward about 1/4" so I can stop the minor rubbing the 315/70R18's have at full bump on part of the liners since I don't want to trim for a tall/fat 35". Also getting all my Thuren/Carli bits installed that I haven't put on the truck yet so looking forward to having all that done and back in a couple of days once my mechanic gets it knocked out.
Any feedback on this so far? I have their lift on my Jeep and really like it. Also, I like the fact that I could push my front axle forward a little more clearance.
 

joshuaeb09

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Any feedback on this so far? I have their lift on my Jeep and really like it. Also, I like the fact that I could push my front axle forward a little more clearance.
I'm pretty happy with their control arms - The axle is freed up quite a bit to move around in conjunction with the thuren sway bar so it rides pretty nice on rougher roads. I'd say they were an important part of getting my 2500 to ride and perform like it does. More than likely going to do the rear control arms in the spring unless I decide to do 3.0" Kings with the Thuren rear control arm setup they're working on.
 

ClawSS

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I wonder if either company's rears can help ride quality and tame the springy reverberation after a square bump when unloaded. The triple bounce is just getting old.
 

joshuaeb09

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I wonder if either company's rears can help ride quality and tame the springy reverberation after a square bump when unloaded. The triple bounce is just getting old.
Have you tried taking the tension out of your stock control arm bushings by breaking each fastener loose and then re-torquing one at a time while at lifted ride height ? That could give you some indication as to if a free moving bushing such as the metalcloak or a joint like core 4x4 cloud be the answer to your problems. I'd also try disconnecting the power hop shock to see if it's contributing to the issue - we don't have them on the CTD's. That said I have seen some folks go the other way and use longer bolts to mount 3 power hop dampeners side by side by side.
 

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