Engine won't start

[6.7PatriotBlue22]

I am having the exact same problem. It started last week and now the truck is dead in the driveway. Only 60,000 miles and regular scheduled maintenance by the dealership. Whether you start the car inside or remotely, it does the same thing. It buzzes, starts pressurizing and there is an audible click under the hood and it shuts off. Block heater doesn't make a difference. Anti-gel fuel additive didn't make a difference, outdoor temp doesn't make a difference. Batteries are fine. Looking for advice. Thanks.

Need a new starter. My truck did the same thing at 120 miles, yes only 120. Truck towed to dealer and starter replaced under warranty.
One very loud click but no start. Dealer tech was able to start the truck by jumping out the starter to verify faulty starter. Good luck.

 

[gen5020]

Thanks! having it towed tomorrow. I'll post an update when it's fixed.

 

[flan]

Very tricky diagnosis by guesswork, the notoriously poor batteries and seemingly more common poor quality starters present themselves similarly when they decide to go tits up.

 

[Great White North Eh]

On my 16 1/2 ton Rebel I had to put in a new battery every year if I wanted it to start in the cold. I’m guessing it was the draw from the crap air suspension. Maybe get them to check for a parasitic draw if they will.

 

[gen5020]

Update: Dealership diagnosed both batteries as having died at the same time (63k miles/32 months) and recommended replacing both. Batteries not covered by warranty or prorated. Offered to sell me two more of the same but I declined. Purchased two Interstate Premium cold weather batteries and had the dealership install them. $507.55 for the batteries, $292.45 for the installation, $800 total. Back on the road and so far, seems to be working!

 

[gimmie11s]

$300 to install batteries??? What in the what??

 

[flan]

$300 to install batteries??? What in the what??

1hr install, 1hr diagnosis? Either way.....rip.

 

[H3LZSN1P3R]

1hr install, 1hr diagnosis? Either way.....rip.

1 hr for everything maybe. The 500$ for interstates is worse

 

[scoharri]

My 2019 RAM 3500 suffers the same issues. I replaced the batteries AND alternator but still suffers. I am able to connect my jump pack and it will start right up. Prior to starting the battery voltage on the dash reads 10+ volts. Once the engine starts the volts slowly rise to about 14.2 volts. Any ideas why I'm having these issues? Could the starter be bad?

 

[H3LZSN1P3R]

My 2019 RAM 3500 suffers the same issues. I replaced the batteries AND alternator but still suffers. I am able to connect my jump pack and it will start right up. Prior to starting the battery voltage on the dash reads 10+ volts. Once the engine starts the volts slowly rise to about 14.2 volts. Any ideas why I'm having these issues? Could the starter be bad?

Are all the connections clean? If the starter was bad it would not crank at all usually

 

[Great White North Eh]

Sometimes new batteries can be duds. I would load test them under the same conditions that cause the trouble start. It’s the only way to eliminate the batteries from the equation. These rolling computters suck when the Pixies are angry.

 

[flan]

My 2019 RAM 3500 suffers the same issues. I replaced the batteries AND alternator but still suffers. I am able to connect my jump pack and it will start right up. Prior to starting the battery voltage on the dash reads 10+ volts. Once the engine starts the volts slowly rise to about 14.2 volts. Any ideas why I'm having these issues? Could the starter be bad?

That’s strange, volts are volts either through a jump pack or batteries. That shouldn’t change a starters functionality in my mind. Seems the jump pack is supplying something the batteries are not...

 

[Nick]

Turned out it was a starter that died, which was in turn causing a fuse fault. New starter fixed all. Took the local dealership service dept a week to fix the problem.

I'm so disgusted with them. I had the truck towed over there over two weeks ago, then on the day I was supposed to get my truck looked at, they misplaced my key. Found it later in the day but to late to do any work on the truck. Got it into the shop the next day, figured out it was a starter, but no starters in stock locally, and on backorder in their supply system. Found a starter at another dealership the next state over last Weds, took them until yesterday to get it, get it installed and ready for pickup.

Then when I was picking up the truck, found the bolt-in battery tray blocks sitting on the floor of the driver's seat, and later found other bolts loose and the passenger side battery positive terminal cover broken. Hate it when you get your vehicle worked on and they break other stuff while it's there. Cautionary tale I guess. At least it runs now.

Save yourself a bunch of work . Buy a decent battery tester on line and save the hassle of taking them out .

 

[zsqure]

Had this same issue on Weds of this week. Press button, cycles through everything and "click" nothing. Got in touch with Stellantis, filled out info on an app. Tow came and took my truck to the dealer. Gave me a rental for a couple days, got the call and was told it was a bad cell in a battery. (when I cycled through the DIC waiting on a tow, it showed 11.5 volts). Hope it lays an egg around home if it does, don't want it to happen when I'm at Hatfield McCoy Trails in a few weeks.

 

[Donnie]

Had this same issue on Weds of this week. Press button, cycles through everything and "click" nothing. Got in touch with Stellantis, filled out info on an app. Tow came and took my truck to the dealer. Gave me a rental for a couple days, got the call and was told it was a bad cell in a battery. (when I cycled through the DIC waiting on a tow, it showed 11.5 volts). Hope it lays an egg around home if it does, don't want it to happen when I'm at Hatfield McCoy Trails in a few weeks.

i just had my 2019. this morning i hope its just my batteries. my dash and my volt multi meter both read 11.8 volts. but got nothing just a click under the hood.

 

[flan]

i just had my 2019. this morning i hope its just my batteries. my dash and my volt multi meter both read 11.8 volts. but got nothing just a click under the hood.

Battery time! Replace as a set, even if the other meters good.

 

[houtxPW]

#1. PUSH IN ALL FUSES.
#2. Check underhood grounds

You could also try a "reboot, ." also sometimes referred to as a capacitive discharge.

Disconnect both NEG (from both batts) then POS battery cables from both and hold the driver side NEG and POS cable together for 30+ seconds.

Leave the truck sit for at least 5 minutes. Reconnect the cables (POS first on both batts, then NEG).

Now, that will probably reset your radio as well and it will take some time for all the apps to come back online.

This resolved the issue on my 2020 PowerWagon, thank you so much for this insightful post!!!!

 

[houtxPW]

This resolved the issue on my 2020 PowerWagon, thank you so much for this insightful post!!!!

This only lasted a couple days and then it happened again today. With the positive cable mounted on the terminal and the negative removed, with the truck completely off when I tap the negative terminal it creates a large enough spark that it tacks the cable end to the terminal. With both cables on the terminal my automatic charger will ramp up maximum amps, but when ibremove the negative cable from the battery terminal it drops to 1/3 of the amps it was pulling from the charger.... it was doing the same thing the other day, but when I took off both cable and held them together for a minutes and then waited a few minutes and put them back on, it didn't spark at all. No idea what's drawing the current so much it would spark like that with no charger and the truck completely off, but today when I tried the same thing it kept sparking and made no difference. I should mention while driving these days the dash say 14.2-14.4v, which is higher than usual...
So this morning the truck started right up, drove for 10 minutes, parked for 8 hrs and it would only click... charge connected to cables high amps, disconnect one cable lower amps, sparks, frustration, more charging, cold AF outside and finally I crawled under the truck with ignition set to run and poked blindly with a nut driver until hitting the right terminals on the standard to get it to turn, almost started, but couldn't find the terminals again. After a bit more fumbling I hit terminals that make it spin, but without the bendix engaging, so I let itbspin for 30 seconds, crawl out from under the truck and push the button and it starts, weakly, but started nonetheless.
I get home shut it off and cranks up easily, but the whole time @ 14.2-14.4 volts. I start it again pop the hood and remove the negative terminal, tap it and sparks fly. I push the cable down so it won't slouch and as I walk around the door the truck stalls, shouldn't stall bit it did. I slip the cable back on loose and start it then quickly remove the cable and run around the door... 13.4-13.5v. It has a little stutter every 15-20sec9nds but doesn't stall and I let it run for a minute. Then I slipped the cable back on the terminal and it was at 13.9v, took the cable off back to 13.5, slip it back on 13.9, Rev it and still 13.9. Tighten the cable on the terminal, 13.9, shut it off and start it back up(starter sounded quick than it has been) and it rises to 13.9v and stays steady.... I turn it off and on a couple times, every time 13.9v..sometimes it flutters to 13.8v, but mostly stays at 13.9v.... 1/14/24 - will update

 

[Jimmy07]

This only lasted a couple days and then it happened again today. With the positive cable mounted on the terminal and the negative removed, with the truck completely off when I tap the negative terminal it creates a large enough spark that it tacks the cable end to the terminal. With both cables on the terminal my automatic charger will ramp up maximum amps, but when ibremove the negative cable from the battery terminal it drops to 1/3 of the amps it was pulling from the charger.... it was doing the same thing the other day, but when I took off both cable and held them together for a minutes and then waited a few minutes and put them back on, it didn't spark at all. No idea what's drawing the current so much it would spark like that with no charger and the truck completely off, but today when I tried the same thing it kept sparking and made no difference. I should mention while driving these days the dash say 14.2-14.4v, which is higher than usual...
So this morning the truck started right up, drove for 10 minutes, parked for 8 hrs and it would only click... charge connected to cables high amps, disconnect one cable lower amps, sparks, frustration, more charging, cold AF outside and finally I crawled under the truck with ignition set to run and poked blindly with a nut driver until hitting the right terminals on the standard to get it to turn, almost started, but couldn't find the terminals again. After a bit more fumbling I hit terminals that make it spin, but without the bendix engaging, so I let itbspin for 30 seconds, crawl out from under the truck and push the button and it starts, weakly, but started nonetheless.
I get home shut it off and cranks up easily, but the whole time @ 14.2-14.4 volts. I start it again pop the hood and remove the negative terminal, tap it and sparks fly. I push the cable down so it won't slouch and as I walk around the door the truck stalls, shouldn't stall bit it did. I slip the cable back on loose and start it then quickly remove the cable and run around the door... 13.4-13.5v. It has a little stutter every 15-20sec9nds but doesn't stall and I let it run for a minute. Then I slipped the cable back on the terminal and it was at 13.9v, took the cable off back to 13.5, slip it back on 13.9, Rev it and still 13.9. Tighten the cable on the terminal, 13.9, shut it off and start it back up(starter sounded quick than it has been) and it rises to 13.9v and stays steady.... I turn it off and on a couple times, every time 13.9v..sometimes it flutters to 13.8v, but mostly stays at 13.9v.... 1/14/24 - will update

Are you saying that you are disconnecting the battery while the truck is running?

 

[houtxPW]

Are you saying that you are disconnecting the battery while the truck is running?

Yes I did... why would I not?