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Ceramic Coatings

LenTex

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Ok, this is for folks that take their vehicle detailing seriously.

Let’s talk Ceramic coating application kits (not the maintenance systems yet). I’m looking at Chemical Guys and Adams, but I’m open to other suggestions.

Thoughts?
 

H3LZSN1P3R

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Ok, this is for folks that take their vehicle detailing seriously.

Let’s talk Ceramic coating application kits (not the maintenance systems yet). I’m looking at Chemical Guys and Adams, but I’m open to other suggestions.

Thoughts?
None of those. Professional detailing ceramic coats are the only ones i would use personally
 

jbncccb

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When you say professional ceramic do you understand the process? There is a reason a professional ceramic costs $2k.
This process usually takes a few days.

1. Claybar every inch of vehicle after very detail wash.
2. Perform any paint correction that might've necessary. Includes machine buffing.
3. Apply ceramic coating in area no larger than one foot square.
4. Cure that area with a UV light.
5. Continue process for remainder of vehicle in one ft square increments.
6. Final polish.

Note the above is a pretty good example but not necessarily 100% accurate. It's just to share the difference in Professional vs these home applications ceramic coatings.

I've used several of the home base ceramics. Chemical guys Hyper wax, The Last Coat, etc. Just had my wife's car professionally done and there is a huge difference. The home base stuff works, just doesn't last in my opinion.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk
 

jbncccb

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Ok… since you recommend “professional” ones, have any specific suggestions?
Ceramic Pro. When applied by an authorized dealer it gets tied to the VIN number. Shows up on Carfax.


Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk
 

LenTex

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When you say professional ceramic do you understand the process? There is a reason a professional ceramic costs $2k.
This process usually takes a few days.

1. Claybar every inch of vehicle after very detail wash.
2. Perform any paint correction that might've necessary. Includes machine buffing.
3. Apply ceramic coating in area no larger than one foot square.
4. Cure that area with a UV light.
5. Continue process for remainder of vehicle in one ft square increments.
6. Final polish.

Note the above is a pretty good example but not necessarily 100% accurate. It's just to share the difference in Professional vs these home applications ceramic coatings.

I've used several of the home base ceramics. Chemical guys Hyper wax, The Last Coat, etc. Just had my wife's car professionally done and there is a huge difference. The home base stuff works, just doesn't last in my opinion.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk
I know it’s labor intensive, and I absolutely understand why it’s so expensive to have professionally done.

I’m able to do some of that work myself, and looking for the best “end user accessible” coating.

Thank you you breaking it down.
 

woody284

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Ceramic Pro. When applied by an authorized dealer it gets tied to the VIN number. Shows up on Carfax.


Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk
Just had this talk with my neighbor today. He just traded his 2019 1500 in on a new black 1500. Yes his ceramic coat on his 19 model showed on carfax but the dealer didn’t care. Basically said “ it’s good it’s on there but that doesn’t add any money to the trade.”
I’m sure they will note it to the next person who buys the truck on the sale but carfax or not does it really matter.
 

jbncccb

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Agreed, it's likely more for insurance if in an accident. Since tied to Carfax it should bring some value if repairs are needed or if totalled. But would likely have to argue with insurance adjuster about it.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk
 

1651Naismith

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I used Car Pro UK 3.0 on two vehicles. Very pleased with both. Car Pro Skin on the PPF and Gliss as the final coat. Over the last year I’ve changed the most the products on my cart from Griots, Adam’s and others I can get in local stores to Car Pro. Performance is a step above and works together as a system very well.
 

bwf1911

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I used Roar Coatings. I am very happy with it but it was a two step process. Not sure I would do that again, but it was very forgiving and looks great. Truck rinses off nicely. Duraslic looks like a good product as well as Car Pro. I also have used a product from a guy locally on my kids cars, super easy to put on but its only lasts about a year. His product is Drive graphene gloss coating for $39 its a great deal. He sells longer lasting ones but I have not tried them. If you have hard water get one with graphene in it - makes for less potential for spots.
Definitely with the pro coatings - less is more. I nearly ran out of the first stage on the truck, I was more careful on the second stage and had about what the mfg said would be left over. I'll get a better photo that shows the gloss this weekend.
 

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1shadowsabre

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Had my truck done with opticoat pro plus about 4 years ago and still looks great!
 

JoeTom83

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I had mine professionally coated with SystemX. I opted for the body, all trim, glass and wheels. It does an excellent job of shedding water, but if you let water sit on areas, it will still spot. My lawn irrigation sometimes hits the lower rockers and wheels on the driver side and I’ve noticed some hard water spots on those areas.

Other than that, I’m happy with the results.

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joshuaeb09

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I've had a few vehicles that were coated with the carpro stuff, but that was the older formulations of cquartz. If you do a good job on the prep it typically comes out pretty well and if you're gentle with essence plus you can "rejuvenate" it a few times before you've got to compound it off and re-coat. Just about all of the carpro products can be ordered as a diyer should you be looking to do 100% of the work yourself and I would suggest using essence (non plus) as part of the prep to make life a little easier (other's also have "prep" compounds that include an SI02 base layer). I'm probably going to pay someone to coat mine after I finish selling old parts from the last ram and my challenger since my back will greatly complain about doing the work I'd consider necessary on something as large as my 2500.

The trick to keeping a coated vehicle in good shape is going to be the maintenance no matter what coating you end up with. I like to always have a sacrificial layer on top of any coating with something that can be incorporated into maintenance washes being my go to in no particular order :

Gyeon Bathe+ (Usually has been my go to if I'm doing a more "intensive" contact wash after doing a foam bath/power wash)
Gyeon Wetcoat (Has been my go to if I'm using spot free rinse at a coin op then going for a drive)
Turtle Wax Hybrid Ceramic WetWax (Usually my go to inexpensive drying aid for at home washes)
Turtle Wax Hybrid Ceramic Wash (More cost effective than Bathe +, but the results aren't as good. Not a bad option for a quickie I just need to get the dust off wash)
Turtle Wax Hybrid Ceramic Waterless Wash/Quick Detailer (My go to QD for coated vehicles since it's inexpensive and I can be liberal with it, works well for getting light dust off or as a topper for a temp shine boost)

When my coating isn't performing as well I'll usually do a decon wash with something like IronX and CarPro reset and then hit it with Essence Plus on the short throw using a finishing pad or ultrafine finishing pad and no pressure on low speed moving pretty quick. The goal isn't to cut as you'll cut into the coating, but rather clean it up and refresh it with something that will fill any gaps and bond well to the coating. If you want to go the extra mile on a "refresh" you can re-coat with a topper coating like carpro gliss after the Essence Plus has cured. For something that was a garage queen like my Challenger I'd also do hand apps of Essence Plus (Basically like you would a wax) anytime I wanted to have it look extra glossy then hit it with the Turtle Wax detailer as a topper after the Essence Plus cured.

Here's what the hood of my old Challenger looked like during it's last Essence jeweling/refresh before I sold it. The reflection shot is a little washed out as it hadn't fully cured yet and you can ignore the meg's spray wax as I had been experimenting with it on my 4th gen at the time.

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Sauksxs

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Had professionally done excellent job they did complete windows, wheels, running boards and mudflaps
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Riccochet

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I've used a few different products over the years. Prep is key. If you aren't doing a full decon, correction and surface prep it's not even worth it. The cost of the coating product itself is cheap. It's the prep work you're paying for when you have it done professionally.

This was using Artdeshine Ceramic Metal Oxide on my '17 1500

1663846923966.png

On my '21 Gladiator I used Adam's Graphene. While I like the protection this product provides, I do not like it's lack of slickness. But, almost 2 years after application and it still beads water like crazy.

1663847127366.png


On my '14 Triton bass boat I've been through 3 different coatings. Time on the water is not gentle to coatings. Originally used GTecnique, then DPC Shield and now have Carpro Quartz on it. Boat still looks fantastic after 8 years of heavy use, so I can't really complain.

1663847590645.png

On my '20 2500 I used Apex Metal Oxide. Almost a year with it on there and it's holding up nicely.
 

Blowenblu

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Went with Do it your self kit. " Avalon King Armor Shield IX" Only $250.
Been on 6 months now and love it, Holding up very well. But like was said above: It's all in the Prep work!
 

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