joshuaeb09
Well-Known Member
Figured I'd make a post since I've really only seen folks using CDT Audio stuff in the 5th gen 1500's. So far I've had zero issues with ANC (I did have to re-pin my metro adapters to get the phase correct, always check against the speaker you pulled out). They did require some minor cutting, but all in all not too bad. I wasn't planning on posting any photos, but I took reference pics for myself as I was tinkering and figured eh why not. I already had 3.5" reference's in the dash in all 3 locations so I was looking to finish off the improved clarity by removing the muddiness in the mid bass as well as enhancing the bass response. Since I had some spiff money I figured why not try the Pioneer swap while I was at it, which while nothing mid blowing, is a bit cleaner than the factory sub IMO. While I was in there I went ahead and did some sound treatment, but I mostly focused on the door cards. I noticed that the 4th gen felt a lot more "premium" after I did the door cards there and that carries over here. Doing the speaker area helps to prevent rattling as well as to keep the sound going where it's wanted, doing the pocket backs makes them sound less plasticy when you have stuff in them, and putting the foam in the right spots does help with certain outside noises. All together the accuracy is much improved, bass response is far cleaner with a tad more extension, and my ANC still works great which was a goal of the components selected.
What I installed -
Front 6x9 - CDT Audio CL-69S (2 Ohm Model) - These really cleaned up the front door mids/bass. I'd say they were really close to the Kappas in my last Challenger, but you can tell it's a slim design as compared to those deep/fat Kappas. The cutting to clear that fat magnet wasn't too bad and it didn't bother me. I've done worse on other vehicles.
Rear 6x9 - CDT Audio HD-690SEX (2 Ohm Model) - These are very much identical to the mid-bass only option, but they have a 1" silk dome tweeter with a basic on-board cross over. They work really nice for rear fill and eliminated the annoyance of the stock driver trying and failing to play highs behind me. Same exact cutting required being basically the same main driver with a tweeter bolted on. The rear fill now isn't distracting at all to me as they blend well with the Infinity's.
Pioneer - TSA2000LD2 - Eh it's alot cleaner and it doesn't misbehave nearly as much when asked to extend low. It's not much if any louder, but with the output increase from the CDT 6x9's it blends nicely and does help fill out the lows. Certain tracks you can clearly tell you have an 8" and not a 10 or 12, but it does what it can cleanly without getting nearly as messy. I'd say the combo is about on par with many of the shallow/low power 10" subs I've heard or had in various vehicles over the years. To note I'm talking about those all in one amp, sub, box deals like those contained Rockford wedges, not something of higher quality in a custom box with more power. You can tell you have some decent bass, but it's not gonna blow your socks off by any means.
What I already had -
Dash Speakers (All 3) - Infinity REF-3032CFX - I've always liked these in the dash location of anything FCA with the Alpine. Some folks prefer the JBL tweeter, but it's largely the same speaker so if you prefer the JBL then by all means I'd suggest it too. If I ever do replace the alpine amp, I'll probably switch these out for something lower sensitivity that can handle some power.
Accessories -
Harnesses Metra 72-6514 - Repined to swap phase for all 4 door locations in keeping with factory phasing for ANC. As shipped pin configuration for the Subwoofer Replacement to match it's factory phasing.
CLD - NVX Stealth Black 90mil - Worked pretty well, Just as well as most Butyl products I've used. I didn't use a ton, but I did spread it around to help kill resonance. I wasn't doing anything crazy here so no real need for full coverage IMO (And I'm too lazy to take ram doors all the way apart these days lol). This Laramie also had alot more from the factory inside of the door than previous Ram's I've had so I didn't really feel I needed to add a ton.
CCF - Siless Liner 157mil - Not bad since pickings were slim on Amazon. Primary I use this stuff to isolate vibrations/rattles. CCF does a good job where you've got things in contact to prevent that transfer of motion and give a firm interface.
Foam - NVX SDAF - Adhesive kinda sucks, but it worked. I used this to fill any bigger gaps similar to how OE's used to use jute carpet padding. It can help kill echos inside of the door card so this was more of a comfort/make bluetooth conference calls better.
Front Silicone Ring/Gasket - I cut up a pair of NVX silicone baffles (They don't really work well with our trucks, but the gasket and front lip can be cut away and used). Only did the fronts since that's where I really cared about getting the mids out of the doors. They worked pretty well for this function, but I did have to roll them back as full unrolled they were too long and folded up pretty weird behind the door card. I also had a bunch of the foams that come with these from other projects so I used that backing foam on all 4 to try and help with dispersion of backwave. Not sure how much they're doing with the window track in the way, but eh it can't hurt.
Tesa Tape (Both Flavors) - I like exterior on wiring harnesses and interior to isolate connectors/clips. If you stick some anywhere you've got a christmas tree or removable clip it can be a good anti-rattle
1/16" Neoprene Weather Strip - I used this as a gasket material for the subwoofer as well as rear 6x9 installation.
What I installed -
Front 6x9 - CDT Audio CL-69S (2 Ohm Model) - These really cleaned up the front door mids/bass. I'd say they were really close to the Kappas in my last Challenger, but you can tell it's a slim design as compared to those deep/fat Kappas. The cutting to clear that fat magnet wasn't too bad and it didn't bother me. I've done worse on other vehicles.
Rear 6x9 - CDT Audio HD-690SEX (2 Ohm Model) - These are very much identical to the mid-bass only option, but they have a 1" silk dome tweeter with a basic on-board cross over. They work really nice for rear fill and eliminated the annoyance of the stock driver trying and failing to play highs behind me. Same exact cutting required being basically the same main driver with a tweeter bolted on. The rear fill now isn't distracting at all to me as they blend well with the Infinity's.
Pioneer - TSA2000LD2 - Eh it's alot cleaner and it doesn't misbehave nearly as much when asked to extend low. It's not much if any louder, but with the output increase from the CDT 6x9's it blends nicely and does help fill out the lows. Certain tracks you can clearly tell you have an 8" and not a 10 or 12, but it does what it can cleanly without getting nearly as messy. I'd say the combo is about on par with many of the shallow/low power 10" subs I've heard or had in various vehicles over the years. To note I'm talking about those all in one amp, sub, box deals like those contained Rockford wedges, not something of higher quality in a custom box with more power. You can tell you have some decent bass, but it's not gonna blow your socks off by any means.
What I already had -
Dash Speakers (All 3) - Infinity REF-3032CFX - I've always liked these in the dash location of anything FCA with the Alpine. Some folks prefer the JBL tweeter, but it's largely the same speaker so if you prefer the JBL then by all means I'd suggest it too. If I ever do replace the alpine amp, I'll probably switch these out for something lower sensitivity that can handle some power.
Accessories -
Harnesses Metra 72-6514 - Repined to swap phase for all 4 door locations in keeping with factory phasing for ANC. As shipped pin configuration for the Subwoofer Replacement to match it's factory phasing.
CLD - NVX Stealth Black 90mil - Worked pretty well, Just as well as most Butyl products I've used. I didn't use a ton, but I did spread it around to help kill resonance. I wasn't doing anything crazy here so no real need for full coverage IMO (And I'm too lazy to take ram doors all the way apart these days lol). This Laramie also had alot more from the factory inside of the door than previous Ram's I've had so I didn't really feel I needed to add a ton.
CCF - Siless Liner 157mil - Not bad since pickings were slim on Amazon. Primary I use this stuff to isolate vibrations/rattles. CCF does a good job where you've got things in contact to prevent that transfer of motion and give a firm interface.
Foam - NVX SDAF - Adhesive kinda sucks, but it worked. I used this to fill any bigger gaps similar to how OE's used to use jute carpet padding. It can help kill echos inside of the door card so this was more of a comfort/make bluetooth conference calls better.
Front Silicone Ring/Gasket - I cut up a pair of NVX silicone baffles (They don't really work well with our trucks, but the gasket and front lip can be cut away and used). Only did the fronts since that's where I really cared about getting the mids out of the doors. They worked pretty well for this function, but I did have to roll them back as full unrolled they were too long and folded up pretty weird behind the door card. I also had a bunch of the foams that come with these from other projects so I used that backing foam on all 4 to try and help with dispersion of backwave. Not sure how much they're doing with the window track in the way, but eh it can't hurt.
Tesa Tape (Both Flavors) - I like exterior on wiring harnesses and interior to isolate connectors/clips. If you stick some anywhere you've got a christmas tree or removable clip it can be a good anti-rattle
1/16" Neoprene Weather Strip - I used this as a gasket material for the subwoofer as well as rear 6x9 installation.