Brake Controller Troubleshooting/Technical Info

[CdnHO]

OP hasn't logged on in about a year, maybe try sending a PM.

Now, as to the trailer BSM, it's simply plugging in the trailer (either 7-pin or 4-pin) that triggers this and the length is detected from the BSM radar in the taillight housing (or can be set to max). When I connect my 5th, I actually lie to it and select conventional. I get *some* extended BSM but due to the 5th wheel interfering with the BSM sensors, don't trust it completely.

I'd be looking at a short in your 7-pin or 4-pin wiring somewhere.

After lying to the truck as to trailer type, does the system send warnings due to the proximity of the fifth wheel?

 

[Brutal_HO]

After lying to the truck as to trailer type, does the system send warnings due to the proximity of the fifth wheel?

Mine does not. A widebody might. Keep in mind the BSM range is reduced because it can't "see" around the fifth wheel.

 

[CdnHO]

Mine does not. A widebody might. Keep in mind the BSM range is reduced because it can't "see" around the fifth wheel.

I will give it a try. Can always revert back to fiver.

 

[Jayhawk]

New to this forum, a coworker just sent me a link to this thread. So some of this will have been discussed in other threads probably.

The information from Tom2531 is great.

New RAMs have brake control issues. For us, working at a trailer store, it's extra frustrating because the trailers that don't work are frequently new or near new. The easiest way to fix the problem is to just pull the trailer with a Ford or GM. We have gotten no help from RAM, to date. We have the dash error messages, but I have to admit, I never noticed we get more than one, as pointed out by Tom2531.

The problem is much more frequent on long trailers. We get very suspicious of any trailer longer than 30' being pulled by a new RAM(We sell/service flatbed trailers that "hot shot" haulers would use.) We speculate that part of the problem is resistance to the brakes. The longer the trailer gets, the more we are losing, electrically, to distance. Most of our vendors do not use the Dexter required wire gauge. I'm not gonna name names, but it's safe to say that almost EVERYONE building trailers with pre-made harnesses are using no better than 12 gauge for their brake wires, and Dexter requires 10 or 8 gauge on longer trailers/triple axles. IF you replace the 14 or 12 gauge trailer harness brake wires with the required 10 or 8 gauge wires, your RAM will often times start working the brakes again. It should be noted, if you call the trailer vendor warranty department, they will possibly blame the trailer magnets. If you replace the magnets you have a fair chance of at least temporarily "solving" your problem. They don't want to admit that they are knowingly building all their trailers wrong, and they just need to get rid of resistance anywhere. They can probably get the axle manufacturer to eat the repair bill, instead of them paying. Although it is a fact they all are using the wrong wire gauge, the only thing that has changed is the RAM truck. Old trucks with aftermarket brake controls, GMs, Fords, etc, will all work the brakes with the trailers that have the "bad" harnesses. IF you have a aftermarket flatbed, you are more likely to have this issue. We are guessing it's just the increase in resistance through addition small gauge wiring. Either way, new RAMS with flatbeds are more of a problem on this issue.

We have discussed setting up a test, run a brake distance with 8 gauge compared to 12 or 14 gauge. I suspect we are also giving up quite a bit on stopping power with GM and Ford(They just don't flash stupid messages at us and shut off the brakes). We've never been smart enough to realize what we are losing. Our industry has been going to electric over hydraulic on bigger trailers, maybe we just need to wire the damn trailers right, and run electric brakes.

Lastly, this is such a problem for our trailer store, we keep a new RAM here just so we can diagnose these problems. We need to be able to duplicate the truck side problems. So right now its a 2022 2500. But I use this truck personally also. If I drive the truck on bumpy roads(Say, to our mountain cabin) the dash gives me the trailer disconnect brake messages, even without a trailer. Which makes me even more suspicious of the RAM factory controller.

We have a Thursday service meeting, I think we will set up a brake distance/wire gauge test. I will advise after that. And next time I get the bumpy road/trailer brake doesn't work message, I will take screen shot and report back on what that exact message is.

 

[Nd79]

New to this forum, a coworker just sent me a link to this thread. So some of this will have been discussed in other threads probably.

The information from Tom2531 is great.

New RAMs have brake control issues. For us, working at a trailer store, it's extra frustrating because the trailers that don't work are frequently new or near new. The easiest way to fix the problem is to just pull the trailer with a Ford or GM. We have gotten no help from RAM, to date. We have the dash error messages, but I have to admit, I never noticed we get more than one, as pointed out by Tom2531.

The problem is much more frequent on long trailers. We get very suspicious of any trailer longer than 30' being pulled by a new RAM(We sell/service flatbed trailers that "hot shot" haulers would use.) We speculate that part of the problem is resistance to the brakes. The longer the trailer gets, the more we are losing, electrically, to distance. Most of our vendors do not use the Dexter required wire gauge. I'm not gonna name names, but it's safe to say that almost EVERYONE building trailers with pre-made harnesses are using no better than 12 gauge for their brake wires, and Dexter requires 10 or 8 gauge on longer trailers/triple axles. IF you replace the 14 or 12 gauge trailer harness brake wires with the required 10 or 8 gauge wires, your RAM will often times start working the brakes again. It should be noted, if you call the trailer vendor warranty department, they will possibly blame the trailer magnets. If you replace the magnets you have a fair chance of at least temporarily "solving" your problem. They don't want to admit that they are knowingly building all their trailers wrong, and they just need to get rid of resistance anywhere. They can probably get the axle manufacturer to eat the repair bill, instead of them paying. Although it is a fact they all are using the wrong wire gauge, the only thing that has changed is the RAM truck. Old trucks with aftermarket brake controls, GMs, Fords, etc, will all work the brakes with the trailers that have the "bad" harnesses. IF you have a aftermarket flatbed, you are more likely to have this issue. We are guessing it's just the increase in resistance through addition small gauge wiring. Either way, new RAMS with flatbeds are more of a problem on this issue.

We have discussed setting up a test, run a brake distance with 8 gauge compared to 12 or 14 gauge. I suspect we are also giving up quite a bit on stopping power with GM and Ford(They just don't flash stupid messages at us and shut off the brakes). We've never been smart enough to realize what we are losing. Our industry has been going to electric over hydraulic on bigger trailers, maybe we just need to wire the damn trailers right, and run electric brakes.

Lastly, this is such a problem for our trailer store, we keep a new RAM here just so we can diagnose these problems. We need to be able to duplicate the truck side problems. So right now its a 2022 2500. But I use this truck personally also. If I drive the truck on bumpy roads(Say, to our mountain cabin) the dash gives me the trailer disconnect brake messages, even without a trailer. Which makes me even more suspicious of the RAM factory controller.

We have a Thursday service meeting, I think we will set up a brake distance/wire gauge test. I will advise after that. And next time I get the bumpy road/trailer brake doesn't work message, I will take screen shot and report back on what that exact message is.

You may want to try wrapping a thin layer of electrical or wire harness tape around the 7-pin plug on the trailer. Like 1-2 layers around the plug where it slides into the truck 7 pin connector. It helps keep the plug in tight on bumpy roads. My dump trailer is extra "jolty" over bumps off-road when empty and this helped me. If you're getting the message on the truck with no trailer attached there might be something else going on though.

 

[CWRIGHT]

This post is about the brake controller on the 2021 HD Ram. First, my story. Second some reverse engineering and description of the warnings on the dash. Finally, some technical details. I would assume this information would apply to other years in the same generation of truck, but outside of that, I don’t know.

I was greeted with Check Trailer Brake Wiring/Trailer Brake Disconnected on our first trip out with our 2021 2500 and travel trailer combo. The same trailer on our 2018 1500 had no issues earlier in the year. At first it happened after a few hours. Sometimes it would just say Check Trailer Brake Wiring, and other times it would ding and say Trailer Brake Disconnected. I read this related post: Trailer Brake Disconnected. I found I had the “old” style 7 pin connector, and I needed to extend mine anyway – so I ordered a Hopkins HM20048 and put that on. The first time I plugged it in, I had no brakes and no left turn signal on the trailer. I bent the pins a little and got them working. Unfortunately, after a short while on the next trip, the error returned.

What bothered me is the error wasn’t real helpful. I wasn’t sure if I had a short, break, or something intermittent. Nor did I know if the problem was in the truck or trailer. I went about troubleshooting and here is what I learned.

Brake Controller Operation​

In the rest of this post, I will refer to the two warning messages and accompanying indicators/audibles as CTBW and TBD.

• CTBW: Check Trailer Brake Wiring – white text, no audible ding, the trailer disconnected icon is not lit
• TBD: Trailer Brake Disconnected – white text with red background, a single audible ding, trailer disconnected icon is lit (red trailer with slash through it in the upper right portion of the dash)

TLDR: A very intermittent short (less than half a second) may never trigger a message. If CTBW comes on, a short has existed for at least a second. If you get a CTBW/TBD cycle every 5 seconds, it’s been shorted all that time. This will stop as soon as the short is resolved. A continuous TBD is an open circuit.

I started testing with load resistors (6 Ohm 50W) that simulated trailer brakes. With 2-6 ohms, the truck would detect a trailer connected. But when I got down to 1.5 ohms, the CTBW/TBD cycle of errors would begin. So would a dead short.

If a short or high current on the brakes is detected, after 1 second you will see CTBW. If the problem goes away during that time, the message will go away. If the condition exists for another 5 seconds, it goes to TBD. If the problem goes away at this point, this will clear also. But if the condition persists, it will cycle between CTBW and TBD every 5 seconds.

While a short or high current scenario is detected, THE BRAKE CONTROLLER WILL NOT OUTPUT A BRAKE SIGNAL. If the short condition is resolved while already braking, the brakes will come on (I experienced this once – when stopping, there were no trailer brakes to start so I got into the truck brake, then the trailer brakes kicked in and scared the crap out of me). If you are braking when a short is detected, it will continue to brake assuming the short isn't bad enough. But as soon as the brakes are released the short will be detected, and the output disabled.

In contrast, an open connection to the trailer brakes will delay for one second, then you will see TBD. The red no trailer icon will persist as long as the brake wiring shows an open circuit.

Trailer Troubleshooting​

From there I connected the truck to the trailer again, and (luckily) it cycled CTBW/TBD. I cut the brake wiring and only connected the brakes on the front axle of the trailer, and the error went away. The back axle brakes by themselves caused the error. When splitting the back axle in to left/right, the short disappeared entirely, so I suspect the issue is in one of the wires. I’ll be re-wiring the trailer brakes soon to remedy the issue.

Etrailer has some good articles on expected current (amps) and resistance (ohms) for different trailer configurations. That’s a good place to start to troubleshoot the trailer wiring. I won’t rehash that here.

Truck Troubleshooting​

(I didn’t go this far, but this was my plan)
If the trailer had checked out, I was planning to connect a load resistor (6 ohms 50W will do it – just be aware it will get hot when braking) across the ground/brake pins of the connector on the truck and drive around with my “virtual” trailer. If there had been a short or break in the truck wiring, my thought was that it would show up and not have all of the complications of a real trailer to troubleshoot. It would have made troubleshooting with the dealer easier.

Technical Details​

I put a oscilloscope on the trailer wiring so see what it was really doing.
The brake controller uses PWM (pulse width modulation). With no trailer connected, it sends out a 12V DC 1ms pulse 3 times a second. When the trailer is connected this voltage will drop a little but this “sensing” pulse continues to check if the trailer is connected. I can actually hear this in my brakes – there is a slight ticking noise coming from the trailer brakes 3 times a second. When you brake, a 250Hz 12V DC PWM signal comes out, with the duty cycle proportional to your braking, as well as gain and trailer settings. The PWM sensing pulse is there all the time even if there is not a trailer connected. Even with an open circuit, the brake controller will still output a full signal when braking. But if it gets shorted or the braking current (amps) is too high, it will shut off. It still senses 3 times a second when shorted and if the short is resolved, it will begin to output again. I would assume the one second delay earlier is three tries before it gets disabled.

Edit: Be sure to see Part 2 below: https://hdrams.com/forum/index.php?...roubleshooting-technical-info.6004/post-96765

My brother-in-law just bought a 2022 Ram Diesel and experienced the Check Trailer Brakes and Trailer Brakes Disconnected message when he connected his 2004 fifth wheel. Based on the great information in your post, we figured the problem was coming from the fifth wheel itself, and his older truck (2006) wasn't smart enough to pick it up. We did verify the plug was the correct generation, verified voltage at all the correct pins, verified continuity of the wires through the harness and verified we had voltage being delivered to the first brake wire connection. Finding nothing wrong we ended up pulling out the original factory trailer brake wiring from inside the front fifth wheel axle and found the culprit. The wire insulation had been stripped off or melted off in three locations, and the wire was intermittently shorting out inside of the axle tube. We ran new wires through both axles (only the front axle had the problem), and the error messages never appeared again. If your new(er) Ram is throwing you these messages, it is telling you there is a problem with your towed vehicle electric brake system. The actual problem will vary from one towed vehicle to another, but if you dig deep enough, you will end up finding a short somewhere in the electric brake system that is causing the new (and smarter) truck computer to shut the electric brake system down before it melts wires.

 

[StrayCat]

is the LE vs HE and option I can select in the vehicle /driver control centre ?

I just connected my cargo trailer today for the first time and im not getting anywhere near the trailer braking pressure I expect. even using the hand dash slider. how does a guy turn on the HE mode ?

thanks

 

[H3LZSN1P3R]

is the LE vs HE and option I can select in the vehicle /driver control centre ?

I just connected my cargo trailer today for the first time and im not getting anywhere near the trailer braking pressure I expect. even using the hand dash slider. how does a guy turn on the HE mode ?

thanks

Go through the radio screen in settings

 

[StrayCat]

Go through the radio screen in settings

Cheers, found it.

Owner Manual was incorrect, said to use the steering wheel arrows, but that didn't work. Found it as you said in the main centre screen.

 

[Tom2531]

I had a PM from @StrayCat. I figured I'd post it here. I'm not on here much so a PM is the way to go. Glad to see people are finding value in my research.

The question was: "is there a way to switch between LE and HE on the truck? I just connected my new 2500 for the first time and I'm not getting anywhere near the trailer braking I expect. (low speed test only so far). Even using the dash slider, I can't lock the wheels (I have done so on all my other trucks)."

It looks like someone beat be to the punch, but you can switch between Light Electric (LE) and Heavy Electric (HE) on the touchscreen. Settings->Trailer Brake->(select a trailer profile). Then you can name it and select the braking type. That's on the big touch screen. Not sure if other models are different.

As for your other question: You might not be able to lock your wheels the way it tapers off from 10MPH to 0MPH. At 10MPH or over, if you pull the manual control to 100%, it will output 100%. But as you approach 0MPH, it will lower the brake output.

Personally, I have mine set to 5.0 gain Light Electric, but I'm only pulling a 24' travel trailer (no slides) and it's not real heavy as compared to what I could pull. I prefer to make braking feel the same whether I am towing or not, rather than using wheel lock up as a benchmark. But that's just me.

 

[StrayCat]

Cheers Guys. I appreciate the replies and info. I figured it all out, tried a few settings and ended up back at light electric 5.0 gain.

 

[Brutal_HO]

I run my 16K load on LE usually around 4-5 gain depending on in town or highway.

The way HE ramps up faster, it was too abrupt/harsh in town.

 

[TRhodes2020-3500]

Just a little more Fuse information. I had the Brakeaway cable pull the E-Brake on my 5th Wheel when I cut a jacknifed corner. After resetting the brakaway cable the trailers EOH brakes no longer functioned. Using the RAM Manual and Blogs on the roadside was frustrating. Everything kept pointing to a fuse at location F30. The fuse tested in F30 fine. I finally found a reference to an "Intigrated Brake Control Module" or IBCM located on fuse #F38. Wa La ... back in business. Next time I am ready to launch an ICBM due to trailer controler malfunctions I will remember fuse F38 and the IBCM.

As reference, I full time in an Alliance 340RL (~ 16,000#) and use the Heavy Electric Over Hydraulic setting. As mentioned above I fool the settings to use a Conventional Setting. The gain is set to 4.5 and the wheels barely lock on the trailer during heavy braking. At a gain of 5.0 the wheels lock to quickly.

 

[Brutal_HO]

LOL, but it's Integrated Trailer Brake Module. ITBM

I put this together, and while it may still need a little work, should be 98% accurate.

RAM Fuses

FUSES RAM Truck PDC Cavity,Rating,Case,Type,Description CB1,25A,04692143AA ,(ATM MAXI Breaker),PWR RR WINDOWS CB2,25A,CB212,ATM (long),PWR SEAT DRIVER https://cooper-bussmann.com/products/Automotive-Electrical/CB212_Type_II_ATM_Footprint_Circuit_Breaker_169.html CB3,25A,CB212,ATM (long),PWR S...

docs.google.com

 

[davidskywalker]

Hey folks, I bought a 2019 RAM 3500 HD HO Diesel (with the integrated brake controller) to tow my 5th wheel toy hauler, this was to replace my old 2006 Ford F350 Diesel truck. My first two years, well I did NOT drive it much due to Covid, but I noticed it that anytime I used the manual brake control I could NOT stop the trailer.-- you know, that test you do, to make sure the 5th wheel is well attached. I never got any error messages, from the display, etc. Then I was told that there is a PWM (Pulse Width Modulation), so I thought perhaps its NOT working well after I max the gain on every setting, or maybe my trailer brakes needed adjustment.

I adjusted the electric brakes, and it did NOT work either. So I decided to change all of the brakes on my trailer (all SIX of them). New everything, that is the whole assembly (shoe pads, magnets, repacked bearings, etc). It did NOT work either. I checked the wiring of the trailer, I installed a new 7 pin cable, and check every connection. Every magnet connection was soldered.

I then got technical. I measured the current and voltage at the trailer's connector and at each one of the wheels. I was surprised that the integrated brake controller was NOT able to source enough power to stop my trailer. The voltage was about 7volts, while the current at max gain was about 5.5 Amps.

So I called the RAM dealership, and I talked to a senior manager (Carlsbad, CA), and he said that I should be able to read about 16.5 amps. I agreed with him. Took the truck, and I brough with me the old cable that I took from the trailer, and ONLY connected 3 of the magnets. If each magnet draws about 3 to 4 amps, my Multimeter should be able to measure less than 10 amps (I was going to be happy). I was charged the standard $200 for a warrantee repair, just to put the same controller again. I told the mechanic, this controller will NOT stop my trailer. The new controller gave me the same results, and so we took my test jig to other trucks at the dealership and all where delivering the same power (voltage and current). The mechanic told me that he could NOT do anything about it, that RAM told him that the way to test the trailer brake controller is to use some kind of 12V motor fan, for which will emulate the load. I told him, how much current where you measuring? he said, "we don't measure it"-- this all RAM is asking us to do, that is connect a fan motor. I talked to the Senior Service manager and he said, well I can NOT do anything about, this is after me asking him to talk to a regional RAM representative. Until this day, NO answer.
Well, so I went to two different shops who specialize in RV towing in San Diego. Each one had a different tool to test a brake controller under loading conditions. One is from a company called Cequent, and another from MAC tools. Both of them show that my RAM truck (and I am assuming) all RAM trucks do NOT have an adequate integrated brake controller. The measurements that I got from the Cequent (see the attached photo), show about the same measurements that I took with my volt/amp meter. I have videos as well.
I called RAM, it took for ever for them to respond. I told them, I want my $200 back, and you "RAM" have a safety problem in your hands. You need to fix the integrated brake controller. They initially said well, we will refund the money, but then they said NO. They said, this problem is between you and the dealership. I told them this is a design problem, and the dealership will only install another brake controller that will perform the same (unsafe). I told them, please contact your engineering team, they need to do a recall for this integrated brake controller. I sent them an email with the test equipment that was used in other shops. I told them calmly, this is a problem that can be replicated. They said, our conversation is over and they basically hand up the phone.
There is more to the story. I contacted the US Department of Transportation National Highway Traffic Safety Administration Office of Defects Investigation, and told them all about it. After a phone call and a couple of emails and responding to a letter that I received from them, ONE of the key investigators told me that it will be VERY VALUABLE/IMPORTANT for other owners to report the problem so they can see how big this is. He said if you know more people, through social media who has the same problem, tell them to come forward. I am assuming this will help put pressure on RAM to do a recall, about a problem that I am assuming they already know. I told them that every truck that is being sold today has this problem (Remember I tested several trucks at the dealership using my jig). RAM is NOT motivated to do anything about this big safety issue.
Please call the following number(NHTSA): 1-888-327-4236, they will ask for your VIN number and contact information, and also when you found out about the problem. You may get a self stamped letter for you to respond confirming the information you provided to hem. Or you can got to the following website: www.nhtsa.dot.gov/hotline

I hope that everyone reports this, RAM will be exposed and they will be forced to recall it ASAP. Thank you.

 

[Poolmonkey]

Aren’t there settings in the TV screen for trailer brakes…differing levels of oomph other than that in the dash controller?

 

[jsalbre]

Aren’t there settings in the TV screen for trailer brakes…differing levels of oomph other than that in the dash controller?

Yep, light electric, heavy electric, light electric over hydraulic, and heavy electric over hydraulic. They change the ramp rate mostly. But if the above poster had read this thread from the beginning he’d have learned that the brake controller won’t give full output when stopped.

 

[Poolmonkey]

Yep, light electric, heavy electric, and electric over hydraulic. They change the ramp rate.

Indeed..was just reading this thread after answering to the guy ^^^

I think the controller is one of the finer things in my PW, I thought the one in my Ford last was nice..this one is super-nice. Silky smooth, seamless..super-nice. My trailer is wee and way over axled/braked, though.

 

[Brutal_HO]

My brake controller works better than expected.

I don't believe this to be an endemic issue with the Ram brake controller.

@davidskywalker the tests you're doing can't be done static without the truck rolling. I hope you read the thread before posting your essay.

 

[H3LZSN1P3R]

Hey folks, I bought a 2019 RAM 3500 HD HO Diesel (with the integrated brake controller) to tow my 5th wheel toy hauler, this was to replace my old 2006 Ford F350 Diesel truck. My first two years, well I did NOT drive it much due to Covid, but I noticed it that anytime I used the manual brake control I could NOT stop the trailer.-- you know, that test you do, to make sure the 5th wheel is well attached. I never got any error messages, from the display, etc. Then I was told that there is a PWM (Pulse Width Modulation), so I thought perhaps its NOT working well after I max the gain on every setting, or maybe my trailer brakes needed adjustment.

I adjusted the electric brakes, and it did NOT work either. So I decided to change all of the brakes on my trailer (all SIX of them). New everything, that is the whole assembly (shoe pads, magnets, repacked bearings, etc). It did NOT work either. I checked the wiring of the trailer, I installed a new 7 pin cable, and check every connection. Every magnet connection was soldered.

I then got technical. I measured the current and voltage at the trailer's connector and at each one of the wheels. I was surprised that the integrated brake controller was NOT able to source enough power to stop my trailer. The voltage was about 7volts, while the current at max gain was about 5.5 Amps.

So I called the RAM dealership, and I talked to a senior manager (Carlsbad, CA), and he said that I should be able to read about 16.5 amps. I agreed with him. Took the truck, and I brough with me the old cable that I took from the trailer, and ONLY connected 3 of the magnets. If each magnet draws about 3 to 4 amps, my Multimeter should be able to measure less than 10 amps (I was going to be happy). I was charged the standard $200 for a warrantee repair, just to put the same controller again. I told the mechanic, this controller will NOT stop my trailer. The new controller gave me the same results, and so we took my test jig to other trucks at the dealership and all where delivering the same power (voltage and current). The mechanic told me that he could NOT do anything about it, that RAM told him that the way to test the trailer brake controller is to use some kind of 12V motor fan, for which will emulate the load. I told him, how much current where you measuring? he said, "we don't measure it"-- this all RAM is asking us to do, that is connect a fan motor. I talked to the Senior Service manager and he said, well I can NOT do anything about, this is after me asking him to talk to a regional RAM representative. Until this day, NO answer.
Well, so I went to two different shops who specialize in RV towing in San Diego. Each one had a different tool to test a brake controller under loading conditions. One is from a company called Cequent, and another from MAC tools. Both of them show that my RAM truck (and I am assuming) all RAM trucks do NOT have an adequate integrated brake controller. The measurements that I got from the Cequent (see the attached photo), show about the same measurements that I took with my volt/amp meter. I have videos as well.
I called RAM, it took for ever for them to respond. I told them, I want my $200 back, and you "RAM" have a safety problem in your hands. You need to fix the integrated brake controller. They initially said well, we will refund the money, but then they said NO. They said, this problem is between you and the dealership. I told them this is a design problem, and the dealership will only install another brake controller that will perform the same (unsafe). I told them, please contact your engineering team, they need to do a recall for this integrated brake controller. I sent them an email with the test equipment that was used in other shops. I told them calmly, this is a problem that can be replicated. They said, our conversation is over and they basically hand up the phone.
There is more to the story. I contacted the US Department of Transportation National Highway Traffic Safety Administration Office of Defects Investigation, and told them all about it. After a phone call and a couple of emails and responding to a letter that I received from them, ONE of the key investigators told me that it will be VERY VALUABLE/IMPORTANT for other owners to report the problem so they can see how big this is. He said if you know more people, through social media who has the same problem, tell them to come forward. I am assuming this will help put pressure on RAM to do a recall, about a problem that I am assuming they already know. I told them that every truck that is being sold today has this problem (Remember I tested several trucks at the dealership using my jig). RAM is NOT motivated to do anything about this big safety issue.
Please call the following number(NHTSA): 1-888-327-4236, they will ask for your VIN number and contact information, and also when you found out about the problem. You may get a self stamped letter for you to respond confirming the information you provided to hem. Or you can got to the following website: www.nhtsa.dot.gov/hotline

I hope that everyone reports this, RAM will be exposed and they will be forced to recall it ASAP. View attachment 58991Thank you.

The system does not work they way you are trying to test it also why would you have to pay 200$ for WARRANTEE work?

FYI my 19 i can lock up the wheels on my triaxles with 18k on the axles so it sounds like you have a trailer issue not a truck issue…. Put the truck in the air and have someone put it in gear and get the speedo over 30MPH you will get a different reading