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Alpine system with sub/amp install

Brett196.7

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Hey everyone, I have a question I’ve searched for the answer to without any luck. I’m new here so I hope I’m not beating a dead horse by asking this. I have a 2019 Ram 2500 Laramie, 6.7 Cummins, 12” Uconnect and the crappy Alpine amp and sub. I used to install car audio systems but it was 20 years ago. My question is what all is involved in getting the proper signal and remote to an amp for aftermarket subs while still using the stock 12” display? Do I need any kind of modules/adapters/converters or anything to convert the signals? I’m building the box so that’s all covered but I just can’t find info on what exactly needs to be done to run the new amp. Mids and highs all stock but will eventually replace. Just want more bass for now. I’d rather not cut any harnesses up if possible. I think I’ll have to disconnect the microphones on the ANC. Please help if possible. Thank y’all in advance!
 

Wmhjr

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Wow. I have a '20 Bighorn with that same "crappy Alpine amp and sub". Honestly, it's the best performing audio system I've ever had or been around in a truck. I'm guessing you're not going to find a lot of people who have swapped that out around here, but I could be wrong.
 

Brewbud

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I will be following this thread. It is the highs and mids that need to be fixed first for me so getting around the ANC and cleaning up the sound (DSP?) is my priority. This is the best sounding new vehicle I have bought, but then again, I have changed the system in every vehicle I have bought. I haven't looked into it much yet. I have read about people using the Rockford Fosgate DSR1. I believe PAC also makes an interface to add an amp. Kenwood too. Suspension is my main focus right now though. Good luck and keep us posted.
 

Brett196.7

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Wow. I have a '20 Bighorn with that same "crappy Alpine amp and sub". Honestly, it's the best performing audio system I've ever had or been around in a truck. I'm guessing you're not going to find a lot of people who have swapped that out around here, but I could be wrong.
I guess crappy is the wrong word to use. I just mean that the sub could be much better but I used to be deep into car audio installs with a ton of bass and far too expensive mids and highs. I’m not looking for a ton of change to make a system like I used to have but I would like it to sound better. I used to spend entirely too much money (probably $5k-6k) when installing in my own vehicles which is unrealistic now. Besides, I’m too old for all that now anyway . In reality I am probably not giving these stereos enough credit. I have 2 sundown 10s and a JL amp out of my wife’s truck that she traded in. (I made sure to grab those). I want to install them with a custom box build along with new mids and highs eventually. I also don’t want to shake my $70k truck apart either. I appreciate the input from everyone.
 
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Brett196.7

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I will be following this thread. It is the highs and mids that need to be fixed first for me so getting around the ANC and cleaning up the sound (DSP?) is my priority. This is the best sounding new vehicle I have bought, but then again, I have changed the system in every vehicle I have bought. I haven't looked into it much yet. I have read about people using the Rockford Fosgate DSR1. I believe PAC also makes an interface to add an amp. Kenwood too. Suspension is my main focus right now though. Good luck and keep us posted.
I have read about the DSR1 as well and am wondering if that’s all I would need along with disconnecting the ANC positive wires under the seat. The sound of the stock system is not terrible but I eventually want more bass with crisp and clean sound. Any help is appreciated so thanks to all of you!
 
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Brett196.7

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Does anyone maybe have a wiring schematic for these stereos? Thanks!
 

FunkELo

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this right here.


no cutting of wires so it's really easy to return to stock. retains all factory functions and gives you more control over some things (parking sensor volume, small EQ), most importantly it will sum and flatten the signal to your amps. Lots of options with this. You can do just an amp/sub with the rest running off factory. Or upgrade front/sub and run the rears off factory. Or upgrade everything. Just be sure to disconnect the speakers you no longer want sound out of.

I use this with a dsp (toslink adapter) with 2 amps, 3 way up front, rear fill and a 12" sub. Blows the crappy little alpine system out of the water.
 

Wmhjr

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Blows the crappy little alpine system out of the water.
Lol.

I'm kind of thinking that there's a lot of different measures of what "crappy" is...... Particularly for the money, I can give way better examples of crappy than the Alpine system in the Ram.... Just sayin. It ain't audiophile. It's a truck used to pull. Can't expect sound from an OEM system that's the same as thousands of dollars of custom work.
 

FunkELo

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Wow. I have a '20 Bighorn with that same "crappy Alpine amp and sub". Honestly, it's the best performing audio system I've ever had or been around in a truck. I'm guessing you're not going to find a lot of people who have swapped that out around here, but I could be wrong.

Around here you won't, but visit car audio specific forums and you'll find alot of upgraded audio systems in Rams.

Lol.

I'm kind of thinking that there's a lot of different measures of what "crappy" is...... Particularly for the money, I can give way better examples of crappy than the Alpine system in the Ram.... Just sayin. It ain't audiophile. It's a truck used to pull. Can't expect sound from an OEM system that's the same as thousands of dollars of custom work.

If you've ever listened to a properly installed and tuned SQ based system, you would probably agree the alpine really isn't that great. I will say that the alpine system in my '20 sounds better than my '14 did, but I still can't wait to get my components installed in this truck. It's just like OEM exhaust or wheels and tires...for some they are great, for others lackluster. All depends on what you're into. It also doesn't have to cost thousands if you know what you're doing. Browse the audio forums and you'll find really good deals on high quaility components at a fraction of the cost for new. I spent less on my current system than most wheel/tire packages....just sayin.
 

Brewbud

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this right here.


no cutting of wires so it's really easy to return to stock. retains all factory functions and gives you more control over some things (parking sensor volume, small EQ), most importantly it will sum and flatten the signal to your amps. Lots of options with this. You can do just an amp/sub with the rest running off factory. Or upgrade front/sub and run the rears off factory. Or upgrade everything. Just be sure to disconnect the speakers you no longer want sound out of.

I use this with a dsp (toslink adapter) with 2 amps, 3 way up front, rear fill and a 12" sub. Blows the crappy little alpine system out of the water.
I was looking at that one too. Crutchfield has it at $279. They list that one and the Fosgate DSR1 for our years. They seem to do pretty much the same thing. I was hoping there was a DSP that could unmuddy the sound a bit before it goes into the factory amp but I guess, aside from the sub, maybe the Alpine system doesn't have a separate Amp? I just need a little bit better for now.
 

skaiskaiskai

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Following here as I'm trying to see options as well. My interest in upgrading probably does come from the loud pop noise from the sub woofer yesterday afternoon while listening to a talk radio station on volume level 12. Sad part is that it wasn't like it was the guy from Allstate talking and rumbling thunder out of the sub. The sub appears to be moving but it used to put out a bit more. Unfortunately it could make my drivers door panel rattle with only half volume on most music . Anyways, trying to figure out any specs on what's with the Alpine system - and sorry not trying to take your thread.
 

Brett196.7

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this right here.


no cutting of wires so it's really easy to return to stock. retains all factory functions and gives you more control over some things (parking sensor volume, small EQ), most importantly it will sum and flatten the signal to your amps. Lots of options with this. You can do just an amp/sub with the rest running off factory. Or upgrade front/sub and run the rears off factory. Or upgrade everything. Just be sure to disconnect the speakers you no longer want sound out of.

I use this with a dsp (toslink adapter) with 2 amps, 3 way up front, rear fill and a 12" sub. Blows the crappy little alpine system out of the water.
Awesome thank you so much!
 

Brett196.7

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Lol.

I'm kind of thinking that there's a lot of different measures of what "crappy" is...... Particularly for the money, I can give way better examples of crappy than the Alpine system in the Ram.... Just sayin. It ain't audiophile. It's a truck used to pull. Can't expect sound from an OEM system that's the same as thousands of dollars of custom work.
Agreed, my version of crappy used to be anything less than a custom system but I’ve aged a bit since my stereo days 20 years ago. Buying this truck, I was more interested in having a dependable truck to pull heavy loads than an absolutely amazing sound system. Honestly, I thought the all around sound out of the base stereo in my ‘19 Lonestar 1500 had better bass and overall sound than in my 2500 with the sub. It just seems like a lot more effort than it’s worth to put an amp and sub in the alpine system from the factory. That’s just my personal opinion though. That’s why I wanted to amend the setup that came stock in my truck but I’m not looking for anything like I used to have.
 

Brewbud

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FYI - If you have a CC you can do the back seat tilt mod and gain some room for replacement amps. I mounted them on the back wall of the cab in my 2007 and some have done it in the 4.5 gens.
 

Brett196.7

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FYI - If you have a CC you can do the back seat tilt mod and gain some room for replacement amps. I mounted them on the back wall of the cab in my 2007 and some have done it in the 4.5 gens.
Where do I find info on the seat tilt mod? That would be awesome!
 

Brett196.7

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Following here as I'm trying to see options as well. My interest in upgrading probably does come from the loud pop noise from the sub woofer yesterday afternoon while listening to a talk radio station on volume level 12. Sad part is that it wasn't like it was the guy from Allstate talking and rumbling thunder out of the sub. The sub appears to be moving but it used to put out a bit more. Unfortunately it could make my drivers door panel rattle with only half volume on most music . Anyways, trying to figure out any specs on what's with the Alpine system - and sorry not trying to take your thread.
No problem buddy (regarding stealing the thread). People have been awesome in guiding me in the right direction. I can install the heck out of equipment once I can get the proper signals to amps. I’m now able to focus on either a 1 ohm load for intensity or 4 ohms if I just want clean quieter bass. I have a mono block amp and 2 dual 4 ohm voice coils...... In other words, they got me right where I need to be. If you can get questions answered too, so be it. Thank you though!
 

Brewbud

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There are many videos on YouTube. 2020 Ram seat tilt mod will pop up a bunch. Here is just one of them


 

FunkELo

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There are many videos on YouTube. 2020 Ram seat tilt mod will pop up a bunch. Here is just one of them



You can also add spacers to raise your seats and do the same. then you don't have to cut anything. I do this so my sub doesn't hit the bottom of the passenger seat. These spacers were included when I bought my box, but you get the idea. You do lose the fold out platform if you go this route unless you extend the supports somehow.

 

Squatch

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What do you guys think of the custom harnesses LLJ customs makes? They have an ANC bypass for 15 bucks and them some tidy options for getting amp signal without altering any of the stock wiring.
 

FunkELo

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What do you guys think of the custom harnesses LLJ customs makes? They have an ANC bypass for 15 bucks and them some tidy options for getting amp signal without altering any of the stock wiring.
I have the ANC bypass and it works well. Noticeable difference with vs without. Can't comment to their other stuff.
 

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