2019 Truck cap/topper/camper shell thread

[Eatonpcat]

Workmanship and fit / finish has gone down across the board, unfortunately. I put a UWS toolbox on the truck when I first got it and it took two times returning it to get one that was “less sh***y” quality. I settled on the third box and it was still pretty junky. They used to make good toolboxes.

I don’t think I would have the slider much but I did order it based on the fact that the truck has a slider and possibly wanting a pass-through. I guess I’ll never know how much i would have used it. At least it has full slider windows with bug screens.

overall I’m happy with it. I de-badged it after this pic.

looking at the rhino racks to put crossbars on the topper
View attachment 16003

Truck looks great...$2700.00 is pricey!

 

[Rockcrawlindude]

Truck looks great...$2700.00 is pricey!

Thanks sir! Yours does, too. Also, Seems pricey but then a decent tonneau cover starts at a grand. I feel like I’m numb to pricing these days.

 

[wensearam]

Anyone rocking a white (or diff color) HD with a SmartCap EVOc (white).....seems fiberglass canopies has gone $$$ since the last time I bought one and kinda debating the SmartCap EVOc or maybe wait for the sport to become available for the 2019 regular bed.....anyways if someone has pics that be awesome!!!! Love my DIamondback, but need a space for the dog

 

[mcspeed]

I ordered an Are Z series cap and it was delivered in 4 weeks. $4,000. Fit and finish are good but not excellent. Happy to report that it is bone dry after rain or car wash.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Rockcrawlindude]

I ordered an Are Z series cap and it was delivered in 4 weeks. $4,000. Fit and finish are good but not excellent. Happy to report that it is bone dry after rain or car wash.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Pics? I think the z is the better looking topper.

 

[Gondul]

Pics? I think the z is the better looking topper.

The Z is better looking and I had zero issues, and no leaking, with the one I had on my 2005 Dakota.
The MX is more more useful, but damn it leaked like a sieve through that door.... I did a bunch of stuff to mitigate that but it still leaks a little.

 

[Rockcrawlindude]

The Z is better looking and I had zero issues, and no leaking, with the one I had on my 2005 Dakota.
The MX is more more useful, but damn it leaked like a sieve through that door.... I did a bunch of stuff to mitigate that but it still leaks a little.

The overlander that I got was the lowest starting price model, so it doesn’t have the pretty frameless windows and hatch. I still think I should’ve gotten better fit and finish even on the base model cap. . I used a rubber mallet to contour the frame because I didn’t like the fit and finish. Imagine a straight piece of metal riveted to a contoured piece of fiberglass. Once I contoured the edges and corners and trimmed off the excess, it cleaned up the look in my opinion. I still need to clean the paint and silicone/caulk (whatever it is) off of the inside of the windows and I’ll have it cleaned up.

the back hatch has the one knob in the middle but it seems to be leak free. The dealer water tested it and it’s been raining for days and we’re dry. I’m happy with the performance so far.

 

[LateToTheParty]

I don't have any issues with my MX letting water in while everything is buttoned up, however if I don't plan properly when opening, anything pooled up on the lip at the bottom of the hatch will drip inside once open (but with the trapezoidal door, I expect it).

 

[Rockcrawlindude]

I don't have any issues with my MX letting water in while everything is buttoned up, however if I don't plan properly when opening, anything pooled up on the lip at the bottom of the hatch will drip inside once open (but with the trapezoidal door, I expect it).

Good heads up. Thanks. I’m new to toppers and would probably dump it on myself. Am I the only one who struggles to reach the hatch to close it? Haha. Also finding it awkward to use my bed step to enter now. Not sure where to hold. May create a solt loop grab handle

 

[LateToTheParty]

Good heads up. Thanks. I’m new to toppers and would probably dump it on myself. Am I the only one who struggles to reach the hatch to close it? Haha. Also finding it awkward to use my bed step to enter now. Not sure where to hold. May create a solt loop grab handle

I added a loop of paracord to the snugtop on my 4th gen because with the 5.5" lift I could barely snag the hatch without a running jump.

Luckily with the shorter lift this time around, even with the extra height of the MX, I can still reach (granted, I'm 6'4" with ape arms, so it could be an anomaly).

What I do to get into the bed is to grab the corner, just about where the switch to the bed lights is located. Keeps my hand off anything greasy and allows me to avoid the tailgate cable. But a grab handle affixed to the cleat sounds like a good idea.

 

[Gondul]

I don't have any issues with my MX letting water in while everything is buttoned up, however if I don't plan properly when opening, anything pooled up on the lip at the bottom of the hatch will drip inside once open (but with the trapezoidal door, I expect it).

It lets in water because there is no seal between the plastic cap that goes over the tail gate and the frame, you open the gate and the water just runs under the gap... I put in some RTV and that helped some but then I noticed there is no gasket on the single T handle.

 

[Gondul]

Good heads up. Thanks. I’m new to toppers and would probably dump it on myself. Am I the only one who struggles to reach the hatch to close it? Haha. Also finding it awkward to use my bed step to enter now. Not sure where to hold. May create a solt loop grab handle

I'm 5'10 and I grab the door along the side where the shock is located... I may use a piece of rope as @LateToTheParty mentioned so I'm not flexing the door too badly.
If I'm using the bed step I grab the corner of the frame, otherwise I just 'jump' onto the tailgate....

 

[jadmt]

man I wish I would have just bought a real topper instead of spending money on the Softopper. Sure they are only 1/3 of the money but they are not even half the topper a real topper is.

 

[LateToTheParty]

It lets in water because there is no seal between the plastic cap that goes over the tail gate and the frame, you open the gate and the water just runs under the gap... I put in some RTV and that helped some but then I noticed there is no gasket on the single T handle.

Must be a difference in the plastic caps on the single versus double handled versions. The plastic cap on mine attaches behind the frame, so anything that would try to go between is channeled to the outer edges.

 

[Rockcrawlindude]

Good ol information sharing going on right here

 

[Gondul]

Here is a pic of the corner on mine pre modification, I shaped/glued on ABS to cover that radius and put a piece of weather stripping on inside.
Anyway, you can see the plastic cap over the tail gate goes under the frame and is simply attached with rivets on the back side.
Water used to run under that gap and then all over me whenever I opened the gate.

I cut a thin silicone mat to make a gasket for the T handle, but I'm still getting some dripping when I open the door, problem is chasing down where it is leaking from and how is it getting to the T handle in the center.

 

[Rockcrawlindude]

Here is a pic of the corner on mine pre modification, I shaped/glued on ABS to cover that radius and put a piece of weather stripping on inside.
Anyway, you can see the plastic cap over the tail gate goes under the frame and is simply attached with rivets on the back side.
Water used to run under that gap and then all over me whenever I opened the gate.

I cut a thin silicone mat to make a gasket for the T handle, but I'm still getting some dripping when I open the door, problem is chasing down where it is leaking from and how is it getting to the T handle in the center.

View attachment 16205

Sounds Well thought out.
That metal corner of the frame in the bottom right quadrant of the pic was one of the places I contoured with a rubber mallet. I got the frame to match the contour of the topper and I used a razor to trim the little excess rubber. I can’t tell if yours is the same way but mine stuck out and was sharp.

 

[Rockcrawlindude]

@Gondul This is what I mean

 

[Gondul]

Ah, ok.. no, mine still stick out but that seems like a good proactive action to take before I, inevitably, slice myself...
Once she gets back from the dealer it's off to find the mallet.

 

[Will_T]

Follow up as another thread on topper costs prompted me to check in with the dealer I ordered my ARE through. He checked with ARE and they told him that it should ship by July 1st and arrive by at the dealer by mid July. Assuming that holds it will be right about 21 weeks order to delivery. Not happy but that is what ARE is able to do right now.