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2.5 hitch anti-rattle/tightener

matemike

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I edited the photo above to show how it works. It acts as a lever. Red is the fulcrum point, yellow is the adjustment bolt exerting downward force, green is the pressure point exerting upward force. In the picture above it, in the previous post, you can see the shank being forced upward in to the top of the receiver. This puts all the tongue weight/pressure on the area marked in green.

The U-Bolt style anti-rattle work the opposite. They pull the shank down in to the bottom of the receiver.
Agreed about the U-bolt style.

But I am not understanding this flat plate style of rattle reducer. It seems like it could reduce the rattle for a little while until it breaks. See in my edited photo below...


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My yellow and green lines are obviously working against each other; thus making the fulcrum point My red lined area.

So this "anti-rattle device" is pulling a lot of weight down on that thin metal bar and pushing back up against the shank to do so. This is basically just twisting the shank upward on one side and downward on the other to torque it into the user thinking it won't rattle. I bet they get a lot of breakages at the blue line locations.
 

OldJeepsNewTrucks

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Resurrecting this dead thread.

Would it be reasonable to put a coat or two of line-x on the shank to give it that little extra girth it needs? I've got just a little touch of slop on mine and figured that would create a tighter fit as well as provide some corrosion resistance.
 

H3LZSN1P3R

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Resurrecting this dead thread.

Would it be reasonable to put a coat or two of line-x on the shank to give it that little extra girth it needs? I've got just a little touch of slop on mine and figured that would create a tighter fit as well as provide some corrosion resistance.
It may do the trick or it may be to tight after and need to be sanded down only one way to find out
 

Jnrcarson

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For what it’s worth, my solution to the rattle was to make shims out of thin sheet metal that go on top and bottom and lock in due to the shape of the hitch itself. Not perfect but took 90% of the rattle out.
 

OldJeepsNewTrucks

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For what it’s worth, my solution to the rattle was to make shims out of thin sheet metal that go on top and bottom and lock in due to the shape of the hitch itself. Not perfect but took 90% of the rattle out.
Thought about that, but trying to avoid extra places where water can get trapped and extra metal to rust.
 

Rockcrawlindude

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Resurrecting this dead thread.

Would it be reasonable to put a coat or two of line-x on the shank to give it that little extra girth it needs? I've got just a little touch of slop on mine and figured that would create a tighter fit as well as provide some corrosion resistance.
Hitch clunk over bumps is the main reason I started pulling my hitch out when I'm not using it. Seemed like the best solution for me.

If you’re dead set on stopping those rattles I think you’d be better off with a few wraps of electrical tape rather than a paint/liner etc. I haven’t tried either of them just a guess
 

H3LZSN1P3R

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depending on if you are able to weld what i did to mine and i will try and get a picture but i drilled a hole on the bottom back side of the receiver and welded a nut so now i thread in a 3/4 bolt and it keeps it from rattling….


If you look at the red spot i marked on the image you will see where the bolt treads in from the bottom and by doing it at the rear behind the pin it does not affect the hitch structurally

5C4EF5EC-EA57-408E-B0DC-6D5B78AC20DB.jpeg
 

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