12v power outlet

[jkbrereton]

I noticed a 12v power outlet in the cab. I was thinking this would be better suited in the bed to run power tools when doing odd jobs. Has anyone installed a set up like that? I assume I already have a power inverter since there is a 12v outlet in the cab

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[jsalbre]

Do you mean 120v?

If so and your intention is to run power tools you’ll probably want to get a bigger inverter, as the built in one is only 400w.

 

[jkbrereton]

Yes, I meant 120v. So I'd need a bigger inverter to run power tools?

 

[Jsrunnlus]

Short answer is yes. Best answer is figure out what you are wanting to operate on an inverter and size it accordingly. Some items have surge power ratings while others are typical / continuous.

One simple math formula is Volts * Amps = Watts. Using a Ridgid Model #R32051 Circular Saw as an example. 120 volts x 15 amps = 1800 watts.

Once you get into the actual size required you may find that it requires larger wiring for the inverter. Then you have to factor in draw on the battery versus how long the battery will last and the alternator charging rate.

 

[Distillusion]

Not to dissuade you, but to offer other alternatives:

A small gas generator is much more efficient for generating power for tools than an idling truck engine. A 2,000W generator/invertor can cost less than $400, or as much as $1,000. Plus small generators can easily be carried closer to where you need the tools.

You can also just get a portable power unit, these things can meet demands up to about 500W. These aren't generators, they're battery packs. Some models go higher, but not sure how long they can carry the load. Charge them at home, or off an inverter off the truck as needed. The 1kW ones tend to draw about 8A, or 950W, to charge, which is more than double what the truck's built-in inverter can handle.

I say this because I've been in situations where I needed power tools and the truck seemed the ideal solution. However, it wasn't, at least not without upgrading the inverter at a minimum. And there are the additional complications that Jsrunnlus mentioned above. I am lucky enough that all the power tools I intend to drag around now run off batteries, so I can run off the truck inverter for a while just powering battery chargers. But a few years back, I was using a small 2kW gas generator, about the same size as a carry-on bag. I ran several portable tools off of it, including a table saw, tile saw, miter saw, routers, and demo saws, pumps, blowers, sprayers, and even small compressors. Not at the same time, of course. Each one was a 10-15 amp tool, any two of which would probably have overloaded it. But it did a heroic job of keeping up with me on one tool at a time.

 

[jkbrereton]

Great suggestions! Thanks for the feedback

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[carlrx7]

the oem inverters are best to recharge a set of lithium batteries used for power tools. 120vac powertools are going to want a 3k inverter due to their locked rotor draw.

 

[Distillusion]

A 2kw inverter will draw 167 amps minimum (typical 20% loss in the inverter, so you'd need 20% more, or around 200A total). To run 8' from your battery, you'd need a minimum of 1/0 gauge wire for both the hot and the ground. Not sure how long your truck battery would last supplying that. It's like running a starter under load.

A 3kw inverter is going to draw 250 amps minimum - call it 310Awith the conversion loss. This chart doesn't go that high, but you'd need 3/0 gauge wire for it.

 

[jsalbre]

That chart seems to be slightly under size to me. I’m running a 3kW inverter in my Airstream and the recommended wire size was 4/0. My run is about 8’ round trip and the wire still gets slightly warm under full load.

That 4/0 is some massive stuff. I used a set of 30” cutters to make my cuts and a short sledge hammer to do the crimping.

 

[Distillusion]

That chart seems to be slightly under size to me. I’m running a 3kW inverter in my Airstream and the recommended wire size was 4/0. My run is about 8’ round trip and the wire still gets slightly warm under full load.

That 4/0 is some massive stuff. I used a set of 30” cutters to make my cuts and a short sledge hammer to do the crimping.

Yeah, it's not uncommon for wire to get a little warm under full rated load. Never hot, though. You might want to try screw-on lugs next time instead of crimp style lugs. Much easier to deal with, plus easy to change out. I have done the crimping, too, using a blunted chisel and hammer to get a good crimp. But I stick to the mechanical kind whenever possible for big stuff.

Your inverter might have a higher conversion loss, too. Could end up drawing more power to generate the same 3kW.

 

[jsalbre]

Yeah, it's not uncommon for wire to get a little warm under full rated load. Never hot, though. You might want to try screw-on lugs next time instead of crimp style lugs. Much easier to deal with, plus easy to change out. I have done the crimping, too, using a blunted chisel and hammer to get a good crimp. But I stick to the mechanical kind whenever possible for big stuff.

Your inverter might have a higher conversion loss, too. Could end up drawing more power to generate the same 3kW.

I used a hammer crimper, designed for large gauge wiring, and tinned copper marine lugs. I’m not sure you could get a lower resistance connection. I sawed one in half after a test crimp and had an effective mechanical weld.

My inverter is a Victron MultiPlus 12/3000/120-50, rated at 93% maximum efficiency. I don’t know what most others are rated at, but it’s supposed to be among the best. Specs call for it to be fused at 400A. Technically (being from the EU) it calls for 2x50mm^2 wires, but it’s much simpler and cleaner running a single cable, and 4/0 is 120mm^2, so it’s the closest I could get.

 

[brainless]

I put a 1500W power inverter on the 2017 Rebel and a 2000W on the PW. The required 0AWG/400Amp gauges and 0/0AWG/450AMP respectively.