Hello What did they do. ? Did they give you a repair order on what had to be done? Thank you
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A/C Issues? Anyone else
- Thread starter OuachitaAdventure
- Start date
Ok I will check out TSB
How long did they have your truck for repairs ?
Gondul
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It was at the dealer for close to a week, the entire front dash needs to come out so it is a bit of a job.
I called ahead to schedule the service and had them order all the parts before I dropped of the truck.
How did you become aware of the TSB. Did they tell you when you brought up the problem issues or it was just sent via mail. Sorry for questions but want to be prepared.
We all found out about it here. I took mine in for diagnosis and was approved. After a trip for spring break, I took it back in for the work. It took a week and was given a loaner. I marked the original air box so I would know they actually replaced it.
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With weather in the 90s lately I’ve been reminded of how inadequate the AC is. Rode in a 2018 Chevy 2500 last week and got totally iced out from a) ac temperature and b) the fan pressure/volume of air from vents. With my Ram on “Max AC” with fan speed all the way up and just blowing upper vents, it isn’t 1/2 as cold or half the fan speed.
I took it to the dealer this spring and asked about the TSB. The dealer had never heard about it, so he looked it up. He said he needed to take the truck to diagnose, I showed him in the TSB that there is no diagnosis, it’s simply if vehicle built between dates A and B, and customer states X, perform TSB. @RamCares is there anything I can say to get them to order the parts for the TSB without them taking my truck for “diagnosis”.? Also should I expect to receive a free loaner?
I took it to the dealer this spring and asked about the TSB. The dealer had never heard about it, so he looked it up. He said he needed to take the truck to diagnose, I showed him in the TSB that there is no diagnosis, it’s simply if vehicle built between dates A and B, and customer states X, perform TSB. @RamCares is there anything I can say to get them to order the parts for the TSB without them taking my truck for “diagnosis”.? Also should I expect to receive a free loaner?
Gondul
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As @Phil T mentioned, I found out about it here on the forum.
Manufacturers don't notify you about TSB, just Recalls.
The TSB itself can be found here https://hdrams.com/forum/index.php?threads/ac-fix-tsb-pre-8-20-build-trucks.3162/
There is no diagnostic for the dealer to perform, merely that the consumer experiences the following symptoms/conditions
Marking the housing is an option if you feel you are working with a less than honest dealer.
I simply called the dealer and told them I would like the truck Serviced for TSB #24-001-20 because my truck has the symptoms described in the TSB, I asked they order the parts in advance (which they did).
Once the parts arrived I was notified and dropped off the truck, it took about a week for them to turn it around.
I did have a subsequent issue that the new housing also had a bad blend door but they ordered a new one and the truck was at the dealer for about 4 more days.
Gondul
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FWIW, I've seen mentioned where dealers will basically refuse to perform a TSB (it isn't mandatory for them to do) and while FCA can 'talk' to the dealer, they are independent of FCA... may have to find another dealer.
As far a loaner, that's entirely dependent upon the dealer... several in my area don't offer loaners or rentals at all.
Best of luck...
Can anyone tell me how do I test it myself before I take it to the dealer? And maybe this have nothing to do with AC but I don't know why the top portion of center console gets hot while the truck is on. Sun got nothing to do with it since I test it parked in the garage and still was getting hot.
I can tell it's not hot but it's not ice cold like in my wifes GMC acadia. Her car gets ice cold. My truck it takes a while to cool down.
Gondul
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You can read through the thread from the start to see what others have done to 'check' their system...
riverside jeep
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yes, mine is a 2019
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DRAGRAM
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I have a 2021 and the AC is terrible. I have a really good Fluke Digital volt ohm meter and I can hook up a thermocouple and I have driven around and done tests in various conditions. I tape the thermocouple probe in the Driver’s side Panel Vent.
My Truck actually will meet their performance test. 54 Deg vent temp with outside air temp of 90. You can set your spec anywhere you want. But that does NOT make it cold or good by any means. I paid for Tech Authority and went in and downloaded all the info on the system in my Truck. I have had it at the Dealer twice and they opened up a STAR case and they have not been able to fix it. Yes, they have NOT been able to fix it. What is broken you say if it meets spec? Well, on an 81 deg day, after just turning off the AC with this 54 deg air coming out, the vent temp will go up to 103. My Truck actually HEATS the ambient air coming in when on the coldest setting, what I would call VENT. So, on a 68 deg Day I am sometimes forced to run the AC because I get so hot. In any other Vehicle I would not likely have to run the AC until I reach 78 to 80 outside air temp. I like it warm but this is ridiculous.
I could not find a detailed coolant flow diagram on Tech Authority. Just a basic one. I wanted to do the Muzzy Hack, but a master Tech told me he does not think that is such a good idea. W E L L , I went under the hood of my Truck and I traced out the system. As far as I can tell the Heater core is supplied from a fitting from the top of the exhaust manifold. The EGR cooler is supplied from a similar fitting off the top of the exhaust manifold. The Turbo cooling is supplied from a Banjo Fitting from the lower front of the cylinder block. All three of these return to a manifold and go down towards the front lower of the motor. I assume the Suction of the Water pump. There is also a vent coming from that manifold to the top of the coolant recovery tank. I assume to bleed out air or create minimum flow. So, I see no reason why the Heater Hose could not be pinched. If anything, it might help flow through the EGR cooler and Turbo. Correct me if I am wrong.
I am going to pinch the Heater Hose with a tool from Harbor Freight. I would MUCH rather be cold and not have HOT air coming into my face when I am on the VENT setting. I want to breath cool fresh air. Hot air makes me sick. I am not going to install a Ball Valve. Pinch is more my style and I am not paranoid about it failing. It won't do any more to that hose than a typical Corbin clamp would. Period.
The rest of this Truck is TOO GOOD to give up on it. But, it's also good that Chevy and Ford do not make a MegaCab. Otherwise, I might have a decision to make.
My Truck actually will meet their performance test. 54 Deg vent temp with outside air temp of 90. You can set your spec anywhere you want. But that does NOT make it cold or good by any means. I paid for Tech Authority and went in and downloaded all the info on the system in my Truck. I have had it at the Dealer twice and they opened up a STAR case and they have not been able to fix it. Yes, they have NOT been able to fix it. What is broken you say if it meets spec? Well, on an 81 deg day, after just turning off the AC with this 54 deg air coming out, the vent temp will go up to 103. My Truck actually HEATS the ambient air coming in when on the coldest setting, what I would call VENT. So, on a 68 deg Day I am sometimes forced to run the AC because I get so hot. In any other Vehicle I would not likely have to run the AC until I reach 78 to 80 outside air temp. I like it warm but this is ridiculous.
I could not find a detailed coolant flow diagram on Tech Authority. Just a basic one. I wanted to do the Muzzy Hack, but a master Tech told me he does not think that is such a good idea. W E L L , I went under the hood of my Truck and I traced out the system. As far as I can tell the Heater core is supplied from a fitting from the top of the exhaust manifold. The EGR cooler is supplied from a similar fitting off the top of the exhaust manifold. The Turbo cooling is supplied from a Banjo Fitting from the lower front of the cylinder block. All three of these return to a manifold and go down towards the front lower of the motor. I assume the Suction of the Water pump. There is also a vent coming from that manifold to the top of the coolant recovery tank. I assume to bleed out air or create minimum flow. So, I see no reason why the Heater Hose could not be pinched. If anything, it might help flow through the EGR cooler and Turbo. Correct me if I am wrong.
I am going to pinch the Heater Hose with a tool from Harbor Freight. I would MUCH rather be cold and not have HOT air coming into my face when I am on the VENT setting. I want to breath cool fresh air. Hot air makes me sick. I am not going to install a Ball Valve. Pinch is more my style and I am not paranoid about it failing. It won't do any more to that hose than a typical Corbin clamp would. Period.
The rest of this Truck is TOO GOOD to give up on it. But, it's also good that Chevy and Ford do not make a MegaCab. Otherwise, I might have a decision to make.
I'm going with the ball valve cause I don't feel like giving the dealer my truck for a week or longer just so they tell me "it's within the specs" I had bad experience with both local dealers and trying to avoid them as much as possible. I need my truck everyday for work and they never have any loaners available or I have to pay for one. (they perform warranty work and I have to pay for a loaner. What a joke!!!) Anyway I'm going to perform oil change soon and at the same time install the ball valve. Hopefully AC will improve since almost every weekend we take our 3 kids to Michigan (2 hours driver) and I don't want them to get hot in the back again.
DRAGRAM
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I agree with what you say. But I know all the folks at my Dealer and my Loaner is free. I have done a lot of testing on my Truck and I have seen some shocking things. For instance there is a "in cab tempature sensor" on BOTH the system description and the wire diagram for 2021 Ram 3500 with MTC. My truck does NOT have one. So, is it just misplaced and sitting on top of the HVAC housing, or was it removed from the system by FCA, and the desc and prints not updated? With Covid everybody is making excused to not do their job.
On a 75 Deg Day on initial startup with a cold engine, with the Heater core in service I can start my Truck and drive. The temp will go down to 42 and then the heater core takes over and the temp will slowly rise to 54. If I pinch the heater hose the temp went down to 26! TWENTY SIX.
I am also going to remove my Cab Air Filter and tape off about 1/2 of the surface area. When my Truck is traveling at 65 MPH and it changes from recirc to outside air the airflow quadtriples. It basically makes fan speed ONE like Fan Speed 4 when I am on Fresh Air and going 65. This forces me to move the air down to the floor because when I am traveling it dries out my eyes and they are constantly burning. I have NEVER had a vehicle do this.
Trust me, I have a 3 page rant I could post. And I HATE BITCHING.
After posting this I thought about it a little more and decided I should give a little more information. I'm wanting to compare how my truck acts to another, especially if you have really good cold ac.
When I start my truck anywhere from 65*-85* outside temp (these are the temps I have had so far), Max AC on, the truck will take 1-3 minutes of continuous AC compressor engagement. After that initial cycle, the compressor will start kicking in and out about every 10 seconds, even though Max AC remains on and the cabin warm/hot. Every other vehicle I have owned seldom cycled the compressor when Max AC equivalent was called for, unless it was low on refrigerant. I am concerned this is a symptom of another underlying issue that is preventing the system from performing to it's full potential and I do not believe it is undercharged.
Thanks!
BroKV
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I was driving back from Laughlin through AZ on Sunday with the AC on (cabin recirculating). About ever half hour it seemed like the recirculating door would open to outside air for a minute or so then close to recirculating again. We did drive through pretty high cross winds. Is the system supposed to do that or was it the cross winds causing it?
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