My 2024 Dually build thread

[Flyin6]

I thought 1/4 tank issues were only a thing with draw straws.

Sumps also have limitations from fuel sloshing. I’m not sure I’d want one on anything but a track truck.

Creature of habit-

I ran a Duramax with one for more than a Decade.

Nice to know these Rams are so well engineered

 

[Flyin6]

The Sureflo setup is just an interface for the external lift pump. There isnt an internal lift pump....it doesn't come with it it since its configured to just run off an external setup. Its just a basket and sender... You wont run into the 1/4 tank issues or priming. Originally I was going to use a Beans Diesel sump to eliminate the 1/4 tank issues (which i've read people are switch over to this sump). I didnt want to drill my tank and discovered the Sureflo. In my situation, I'm doing a 2G build, I needed to feed my 10mm stroker CP3 pump that's going to feed 70% over sticks. My demand for fuel is is much more...It just all depends where you're going with your truck, power-wise...since you said "deleted"..that itself is going to take you down the rabbit hole and turn into a money pit

Fleece actually offers it with two lift pumps sandwiched in there. Able to support something like 800 HP

PowerFlo lift pump for 2011-2024 Ram C&C over rear axle tank

PowerFlo lift pump for 2011-2024 Ram C&C over rear axle tank (52 gal). Replaces OEM part number 68064420AA

www.fleeceperformance.com

Copy all on the money pit...

Not going to build a crazy ride here. Eventually, I'll delete and tune it, but it has ample HP now, so I don't see myself going overboard with this one.

 

[Flyin6]

Next project: Banks DPF/Catalytic Converter back exhaust

 

[Flyin6]

This is a 5" mandrel bent pipe with a way-too-big exhaust tip

 

[Flyin6]

Yeah, not liking that tip at all

My wife took one look at it and said, "That's way too Redneck." I concur

Lets look at the stock exhaust before we start for comparison to the Banks system

 

[Flyin6]

Wrestling the stock stuff off is not all that difficult, but be prepared for a wrestling match to get those rubber isolators off. With them removed and the factory clamps loosened, I was able to bang on it with a rubber mallet to pop it off. I only jacked that side of the truck up to gain the necessary working room.

Notice the stock pipe necks down considerably where it transitions over the rear axle:

 

[Flyin6]

The Banks system goes on fa.irly easily in three sections. I needed to assemble the first two sections loosely so they would slide in there. There is not enough spacing to assemble the two pipes with the first attached to its hangers.

 

[Flyin6]

And finally, the aft section.

I like this setup the best for stealth and ground clearance. The pipe tucks up neatly with clearance from even the fifth wheel mount installed on my truck.

 

[Flyin6]

I tossed the garbage can tip on just to show how large that thing really is. It will not remain installed. Thinking I'll grow a tomato plant in it this spring

 

[AH64ID]

You’ll definitely want some sort of tip there, but like a lot of banks things that tip is overly showy.

 

[Flyin6]

You’ll definitely want some sort of tip there, but like a lot of banks things that tip is overly showy.

I think I'll find a short section of 5" stainless and fashion something to complete the exit.

 

[Flyin6]

I suppose I should talk about my initial impressions of Banks ' modifications, specifically those pertaining to the induction side of the engine.

The parts all fit well and are expertly engineered. A lot of the Banks stuff looks similar to Aircraft parts, with their over-the-top engineering and machining. I'm not working on a GE CF-34 here, but at times it feels like it!

There is more torque right off idle and from 900 to 1300 RPM. I barely touch the throttle, and the power is there. I noticed last night, going up a long hill after a slow turn at the bottom (30 mph), that the truck just lugged up the hill in 6th gear. Luged is perhaps the wrong word. It stayed in gear while delivering the acceleration I wanted. In the past, I have felt it should downshift and given it more pedal to force it. That would, of course, be followed by the shift and a surge of power that was, in fact, too much.

I have read that others could hear the turbo. Me: not at all! The sound is likely there, but my helicopter/jet-pilot-modified ears are not, so there's that...

There are no rattles, smells, or new and unusual noises; it just works and works better. I am getting a warning message telling me to "Service throttle module," but everything throttle-related is operating perfectly well. I'm wondering if I unplugged some electrical connection and pissed off the ECM? Do those things have feelings? I mean, this is the age of A.I.!

 

[Units]

May just need to clear the code out and put some miles in. MAF tables may be different due to increased air flow, just a thought.

 

[Flyin6]

May just need to clear the code out and put some miles in. MAF tables may be different due to increased air flow, just a thought.

I was thinking along the same line. Plan to clear the code with a tool, then see if it re-presents.

 

[Flyin6]

I should also mention that adding the 5" tailpipe made no difference in engine sound.

 

[Wheelz]

I never encountered that code with that intake unless your hitting both gas and brake at the same time. To reset the pedal, with the key on (dont start) floor the pedal to the floor for like 15 secs.. hold it there and it'll chime like 2x's...release, key off, and restart your truck..might take a couple of time to get it right and clear it that way. Just make sure you didnt hard-set any codes for the sensors on the intake.

 

[Flyin6]

I never encountered that code with that intake unless your hitting both gas and brake at the same time. To reset the pedal, with the key on (dont start) floor the pedal to the floor for like 15 secs.. hold it there and it'll chime like 2x's...release, key off, and restart your truck..might take a couple of time to get it right and clear it that way. Just make sure you didnt hard-set any codes for the sensors on the intake.

Thank you, I'll do that right away and report back.

 

[gimmie11s]

I just ordered seven new Venon Power Tera Hunter XT tires for the truck.

They look surprisingly similar to one of my all-time favs, the BFG All-Terrain.

After only 19,000 miles, the Toyos are wearing poorly in the front. I would have to replace those two 255-80R17 tires for nearly $600, or take this opportunity to go up to the 35" sizing I really want. The entire price for the new Venom tires was $1578 to my door! That's stupidly inexpensive.

My thinking here is that the front end of these heavy duallys tears up tires, ball joints, and my nerves with surprising regularity. I do not like swapping two worn front tires to the rear, but I prefer to purchase new tires for that busy front end. Therefore, pricing is essential, and these Venom tires come in at just $221 each, even without my military discount.

Further, after a comprehensive search, I can't find anyone going negative on these tires. They seem to be a hidden gem in the tire world

What size tire did you end up going with?

Great review on the Banks parts. Looks like a lot of work, but you executed the job well!

 

[Flyin6]

What size tire did you end up going with?

Great review on the Banks parts. Looks like a lot of work, but you executed the job well!

Thanks-

35/10.50R17 Load range E

I think you made an excellent choice of fires, and I was strongly considering those, but along the way, I started bumping into all these great reviews of the Venom tires. For the price, I am willing to give them a shot.

I also went with the .25" spacer as per your recommendation.

 

[Flyin6]

I never encountered that code with that intake unless your hitting both gas and brake at the same time. To reset the pedal, with the key on (dont start) floor the pedal to the floor for like 15 secs.. hold it there and it'll chime like 2x's...release, key off, and restart your truck..might take a couple of time to get it right and clear it that way. Just make sure you didnt hard-set any codes for the sensors on the intake.

I tried the pedal reset, but it didn't work. In fact, it didn't do anything. I do have the Banks Pedal Monster installed; perhaps that is interfering with the reset. Frankly, I have never heard of resetting pedal calibration, only as a step to help the ECM "learn" a new pedal controller.