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Setting up Equalizer WD Hitch - those that have please chime in

I typoed that. I’m actually at 7 washers. 7 gives me 60% FALR, 6 gives me 40%.

This is with an Equalizer 10k/1k head on their 6” drop 2.5” shank.

Of course, now that I’ve typed that out I realize I’m using the 1000 lb tongue weight hitch, and I have 1220 lbs of tongue weight, which means I actually need the 1400 lbs hitch. Dang it.
 
Air suspension and engine choice really don't have a bearing on weight transfer back to the front axle.

The hardest part you will have with transferring weight is the distance from the hitch pin to the ball, which is why I recommended starting with at least 6 washers.

As an example I went from a 18" extended shank to a normal 12" shank and the weight transfer difference was noticable, as was the towing improvement. Nothing else was changed. That was with 6 washers and 1200-1300lbs tongue weight. I should have been at at least 7 washers for that long hitch and weight.
Just the tech head in my thinking. I didn't validate the difference in front coils between gasers and Cummins from the factory but just speculating. All things the same, the coils in front would compress more on Diesels when transferring the weight from the WD TT hitch because they are already carrying more weight with the difference in motors. So if that ends up being the case I would require less WD transfer IF I was running stock BUT I'm not. I have different/softer coils up front and Fox shocks now. Again just speculation. My softer suspension could very well require more WD. Espectially with the extended length the GenY hitch will be extending from the truck as you pointed out.
 
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The coils won't have any effect on how much weight is transferred. The goal of setting the "proper" amount of WD isn't suspension height, it's restoration of weight to the front axle, and for the RAM HDs is as close to 50% as possible, erroring on the >50% side. The suspension measurements are just a quick and easy way of doing this measurement. The only truly accurate way to validate is be to weigh the truck and see that the front axle weight when WD is engaged is 50% of the difference between unhitched and hitched up without WD engaged.
 
I typoed that. I’m actually at 7 washers. 7 gives me 60% FALR, 6 gives me 40%.

This is with an Equalizer 10k/1k head on their 6” drop 2.5” shank.

Of course, now that I’ve typed that out I realize I’m using the 1000 lb tongue weight hitch, and I have 1220 lbs of tongue weight, which means I actually need the 1400 lbs hitch. Dang it.

The coils won't have any effect on how much weight is transferred. The goal of setting the "proper" amount of WD isn't suspension height, it's restoration of weight to the front axle, and for the RAM HDs is as close to 50% as possible, erroring on the >50% side. The suspension measurements are just a quick and easy way of doing this measurement. The only truly accurate way to validate is be to weigh the truck and see that the front axle weight when WD is engaged is 50% of the difference between unhitched and hitched up without WD engaged.

So after what I posted above I went through my scale tickets from the last trip and re-entered all the numbers in my weight calculator spreadsheet. The result is even better proof that you can't always rely on the suspension measurements.

With everything setup as it is my measurements show a 5/8" front suspension rise when hitched up without WDH and a 3/8" rise when WDH is applied, coming out to a 60% FALR, but when I run the scale numbers it shows I really only have a 33% FALR. More proof that I have the wrong hitch size as well.

Screenshot 2023-04-10 at 15.08.15.png
 
Just the tech head in my thinking. I didn't validate the difference in front coils between gasers and Cummins from the factory but just speculating. All things the same, the coils in front would compress more on Diesels when transferring the weight from the WD TT hitch because they are already carrying more weight with the difference in motors. So if that ends up being the case I would require less WD transfer IF I was running stock BUT I'm not. I have different/softer coils up front and Fox shocks now. Again just speculation. My softer suspension could very well require more WD. Espectially with the extended length the GenY hitch will be extending from the truck as you pointed out.

As stated the coils won't have any effect on weight transfer, but they would have an effect on ride height difference per pound applied... but those two things aren't the same.

AFIK there are many versions of coils, based on cab/engine/bed/etc.
 
SMH - Second one I received has the same manufacturing error. This is just whacked. Waiting for a call back from the Sales Manager.

I called Shocker as I was going to seriously consider their WD setup but wouldn't give enough drop for the Airstream. They only allow for 5 inch drop so won't work for our rigs.
 

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Might be the pictures, but that one looks worse than the first one :rolleyes:
 
So its clear to me i wont be buying Gen-y ever thats ridiculous.

I am storing a 5th wheel for a friend and he has a Gen-Y gooseneck 5th wheel pin box on it and I am not impressed. Just the overall close look and feel isn't what I expected. I also don't know if he got the wrong coupler, or it's just the design, but he cannot open the tailgate while hitched, so its a multiple step process to hitch/unhitch with a tailgate attached.
 
I am storing a 5th wheel for a friend and he has a Gen-Y gooseneck coupler on it and I am not impressed. Just the overall close look and feel isn't what I expected. I also don't know if he got the wrong coupler, or it's just the design, but he cannot open the tailgate while hitched, so its a multiple step process to hitch/unhitch with a tailgate attached.
For the price they charge thats infuriating!
 
I'm definitely discouraged. This just shouldn't be and this Sales Manager has no sense of urgency. Never called me.

I have to look later tonight to see what other options there is. Almost tempted to just go lower drop standard Equalizer shank but rather the advancements in these products for better towing experience.

As far as I am aware, Shocker and Gen-Y were the icons in this arena. Unfortunately the Shocker doesn't have enough drop which explains why I read many folks lift their Airstream Travel trailers when using. That or they are just using half ton TV's.
 
Yeah, as far as a simple/turnkey approach to cushioning the force that a WDH puts on the front of an Airstream, I believe Gen-Y and Shocker are the only solutions. Whether or not it really helps prevent front end separation, who knows.

I have heard a few knowledgeable folks (Vinnie from North Bay Airstreams) use the standard, horizontal Shocker with a traditional friction sway control bar and forego weight distribution. It's not as elegant as you need to get out and manually release the friction bars when making tight turns. But, it's probably the most gentle system if you're worried about front end separation and don't need weight distribution.

https://shockerhitch.com/product/hd-max-black-air-drop-hitch-sway-control-towing-kit/

 
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Yeah, as far as a simple/turnkey approach to cushioning the force that a WDH puts on the front of an Airstream, I believe Gen-Y and Shocker are the only solutions. Whether or not it really helps prevent front end separation, who knows.

I have heard a few knowledgeable folks (Vinnie from North Bay Airstreams) use the standard, horizontal Shocker with a traditional friction sway control bar and forego weight distribution. It's not as elegant as you need to get out and manually release the friction bars when making tight turns. But, it's probably the most gentle system if you're worried about front end separation and don't need weight distribution.

https://shockerhitch.com/product/hd-max-black-air-drop-hitch-sway-control-towing-kit/

Yeah I want to keep the integrity of the Equalizer weight distribution and bars. I spoke to the rep today about that elimination but not interested in that direction. I'm sure wouldn't be a problem not using the WD bars with our 3/4 trucks but would rather.

I took the AS to Tallahassee to have Vinnys other half Bryan Boe ceramic coat mine.
 
Weight distribution is far more important than sway control, even if it’s not “needed”.

Are airstreams really that fragile?
 
Weight distribution is far more important than sway control, even if it’s not “needed”.

Are airstreams really that fragile?
Most of the owners act like they are! They are hard on the eyes though in my opinion but everyone has their own style i guess.


What about the curt rebelion does it work with the WDH setup? Its a nice soft ride hitch if thats what your in to
 
Are airstreams really that fragile?
The exterior shell is because it aluminum. Go figure less durable than fiber glass. Easily dented as well. You wouldn't think but the Alcoa clear on it isn't that good and degrades if you don't keep it waxed and protected from the elements. Ceramic coating is an added insurance policy and less to maintain on the outside. Just normal washing needed. Everything beads right off it. The more important thing is you don't want to let the finish go to where you actually damage the aluminum finish and is then irreversible and expensive as you need total panel replacements. That damage is called filaform corrosion or oxidation. Salt exposure is really bad for it.
Most of the owners act like they are! They are hard on the eyes though in my opinion but everyone has their own style i guess.
Have you ever seen one in person? I had same thought process until I stepped into one. My wife wanted it and we all do what we can to keep the wives happy ;) . I was against the investment initially quite honestly because of the exorbitant cost. The interior is first class. Top quality construction and feels that way when you are living inside it. What sold me is that they hold their value incredibly well. Better than any other RV in whatever class you look at. They also last for generations if properly maintained. Maybe I'll pass down to my kids. Who knows. Some also say it's pretty neat to be a part of the AS and Wally fan club. It's a cool community that everyone sticks together and share experiences. It's pretty nice. I relate it the the Ducati owners and many friends I hang with that own the brand.

I did some heavy upgrades to it in the 2 years we owned it as well. Solar, lithium, multiple inverters, 4k TVs, blah blah blah. Too much to list. Can boon dock for weeks at a time if I want.
 
The exterior shell is because it aluminum. Go figure less durable than fiber glass. Easily dented as well. You wouldn't think but the Alcoa clear on it isn't that good and degrades if you don't keep it waxed and protected from the elements. Ceramic coating is an added insurance policy and less to maintain on the outside. Just normal washing needed. Everything beads right off it. The more important thing is you don't want to let the finish go to where you actually damage the aluminum finish and is then irreversible and expensive as you need total panel replacements. That damage is called filaform corrosion or oxidation. Salt exposure is really bad for it.

Have you ever seen one in person? I had same thought process until I stepped into one. My wife wanted it and we all do what we can to keep the wives happy ;) . I was against the investment initially quite honestly because of the exorbitant cost. The interior is first class. Top quality construction and feels that way when you are living inside it. What sold me is that they hold their value incredibly well. Better than any other RV in whatever class you look at. They also last for generations if properly maintained. Maybe I'll pass down to my kids. Who knows. Some also say it's pretty neat to be a part of the AS and Wally fan club. It's a cool community that everyone sticks together and share experiences. It's pretty nice. I relate it the the Ducati owners and many friends I hang with that own the brand.

I did some heavy upgrades to it in the 2 years we owned it as well. Solar, lithium, multiple inverters, 4k TVs, blah blah blah. Too much to list. Can boon dock for weeks at a time if I want.
Majority of my trailer use is bush roads and hunting so i don't need luxury lol but i have seen them inside they are nice i will agree with that.
 
I put the Dexter lift kit on our Airstream when we had it. The 30’ had a big rear end and I wanted to keep it off the pavement. Gave me some extra clearance boondocking as well, and meant I needed less of a drop hitch.
 
Weight distribution is far more important than sway control, even if it’s not “needed”.

Are airstreams really that fragile?
There have been a rash of issues with the outer shell separating from the frame on the front bedroom units with the large front storage compartment. Opening up that area for storage has apparently created some weakness that folks claim is exacerbated by using a weight distributing hitch with heavy bars. The repairs are invasive and expensive so people are looking for a way to put some "give" into the connection between tow vehicle/trailer.

images.jpg
 
There have been a rash of issues with the outer shell separating from the frame on the front bedroom units with the large front storage compartment. Opening up that area for storage has apparently created some weakness that folks claim is exacerbated by using a weight distributing hitch with heavy bars. The repairs are invasive and expensive so people are looking for a way to put some "give" into the connection between tow vehicle/trailer.

View attachment 54982

Interesting.

Heavy bars meaning too big for the weight, or just heavy rated bars?

Contents inside my trailer stay more put with WDH, and my bars have been 1200-1400 but so has the TW, than without and there is less jarring of the truck over rough roads with the WDH. That makes it hard for me to see how WDH could be the culprit, unless they are using 1400lb bars with 600 lbs of tongue weight.
 
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