Riddick
Well-Known Member
Do you have a manual? Thought that was the only thing that SOTF didn't work with.
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Calibrated Powers EZ Lynk tunes currently do not support SOTF tunes for this platform. My truck will be a 2500 with 68RFE.
Do you have a manual? Thought that was the only thing that SOTF didn't work with.
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Unless they changed, the DEF tank has a membrane. If you leave it empty the membrane will dry out, crack and render the tank useless. I suggest you fill it with distilled water to keep it from drying out.My EGR valve always stays at 0% (monitored by the EZ Link Auto Agent) and the DEF gauge reads full even though the tank is empty, the truck still regens as normal but just no longer uses DEF, so far I'm VERY happy with the setup, I use the 30 HP towing tune and tow often at 25,500 GVW.
Calibrated Powers EZ Lynk tunes currently do not support SOTF tunes for this platform. My truck will be a 2500 with 68RFE.
I removed the DEF Pump, cleaned out the tank and flushed \ dried out the injection line, it's all clean as a pin and all I have to do is put DEF in it if I need to go back to stock.Unless they changed, the DEF tank has a membrane. If you leave it empty the membrane will dry out, crack and render the tank useless. I suggest you fill it with distilled water to keep it from drying out.
I would like to have the EGR shut off, but I don't do business with Canada unless it was the only option, went with CP and very satisfied. Soot problems in the 6.7 are far less critical than they are in my 1500 Ecodiesel. That truck has EGR shutoff tune for sure.
Thanks, that's good to know. Either they changed tank designs to no membrane, or I was wrongly told that my 2016 1500 Ecodiesel DEF tank had a membrane. It's not of concern because I will not delete, just irritates me to not know I don't know.I removed the DEF Pump, cleaned out the tank and flushed \ dried out the injection line, it's all clean as a pin and all I have to do is put DEF in it if I need to go back to stock.
The DEF tank does not have a membrane in it, it is white poly on the inside but it's not a membrane .
I actually bought the Tunes from a dealer in Pennsylvania, just had to go to a Canadian website to order.
So, I did get the EZlink today, but got sidetracked from the install and won't be able to do it tonight. Questions though. Once you plug in the OBD connector and little white bypass in, do you need to remove that lower panel to get to the white connector hookup to the green? And, once installed, can you disconnect the EZLink altogether and just run without all the monitoring? The videos I've found all show them cracking the center dash to run the mount thing and I'm not sure I want to do that. Thoughts on this would be appreciated. Thx guys.I'll definitely share them here
Thanks John for the detailed response. I'll get it done tonight.Once you plug in the OBD connector and little white bypass in, do you need to remove that lower panel to get to the white connector hookup to the green?
Yes, it makes it easier. And if you pry off the panel next to or above the headlight switches it makes it easy peasy. I leave the bypass in place and just tuck into the top of the side panel. Then it's there whenever I want to change tunes or go back to stock
And, once installed, can you disconnect the EZLink altogether and just run without all the monitoring?
Yes, that's what I do
The videos I've found all show them cracking the center dash to run the mount thing and I'm not sure I want to do that. Thoughts on this would be appreciated.
That's only if you want to monitor things. I use an Edge CTS3, so I have no need to mount the EzLynk monitor
Once you plug in the OBD connector and little white bypass in, do you need to remove that lower panel to get to the white connector hookup to the green?
Yes, it makes it easier. And if you pry off the panel next to or above the headlight switches it makes it easy peasy. I leave the bypass in place and just tuck into the top of the side panel. Then it's there whenever I want to change tunes or go back to stock
And, once installed, can you disconnect the EZLink altogether and just run without all the monitoring?
Yes, that's what I do
The videos I've found all show them cracking the center dash to run the mount thing and I'm not sure I want to do that. Thoughts on this would be appreciated.
That's only if you want to monitor things. I use an Edge CTS3, so I have no need to mount the EzLynk monitor
I found that pulling the blank panel (close to the switch panel) was easiest and a safer one to remove. That is if I broke a tab or anything, it would be cheapest, easiest fixJust pull the headlight switch/panel for easy access to the CANBUS blocks.
Update. Holy Shnikies! Did the 80+hp Sport tune and I'm freaking loving that I went though with this. I didn't say a word when I picked up my 13 year old daughter, and hit it on the freeway and my daughters like, "Whoa Dad! Truck feels more powerful!" Lol. That's all the words of affirmation I needed. Thanks everyone for the install advice!Thanks John for the detailed response. I'll get it done tonight.![]()
Update. Holy Shnikies! Did the 80+hp Sport tune and I'm freaking loving that I went though with this. I didn't say a word when I picked up my 13 year old daughter, and hit it on the freeway and my daughters like, "Whoa Dad! Truck feels more powerful!" Lol. That's all the words of affirmation I needed. Thanks everyone for the install advice!![]()
I hope you did a trans relearn and took it easy for at least 30 miles of stop and go before that?
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Why?
Flashing a tune resets the CVI values of the transmission and you can do severe damage if you do not do a re-learn and drive easy (30% or less throttle) and let it shift through all the gears for at least 30 miles. I go at least 100 before I start getting on it just to make sure.
I don't know if this applies to the Aisin but I know it does the 68RFE .
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Interesting, i hadnt heard that. So all those full-throttle test drives on new trucks with 5 miles oughta be putting trucks in dealer shops by now for warranty work/broken transmissions.
Great info and while I had not read the detail you mention here, I did pay attention to the warnings about going easy and letting the tranny relearn.Here is a post from one of the Revmax Sr. Engineers. There are others out there but this pretty much sums it up. It does apply to Ez Lynk as well...
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I want to start this post and make sure that all of you understand that this issue is not a tuner specific issue. All tuners who use a tuner to flash the engine with custom tuning will have this issue, it may also be an issue anytime the ECM is reflashed either with a factory flash or other aftermarket tuner. The issue has been found using EFI Live so far, but we anticipate this to be the case with any flash or tuner . This issue may also occur with HS and other platforms as well including factory flashes, but we have not tested it and cannot be for sure, but we expect it to (more on that to come). The issue is more problematic on the 2010+ trucks as the TCM and ECM are combined and therefore when the engine is flashed the transmission side of things gets disrupted as well even though no change may have been done to the transmission. The 3rd gen trucks have separate controllers and therefore the issue only arises when the TCM is reflashed.
So, unfortunately we have found that on all 2010 and newer trucks there is a major issue that occurs when the controller is flashed. When the unit is flashed the transmission's CVI adaptive memory is erased and put back to stock. Basically, the truck thinks that it has a new transmission installed in it when it does not. An example is a truck with a performance transmission starts with a baseline OD CVI in the 45-55 range normally. After the drive learn portion this CVI number goes down to 5-25 in most cases. The controller can only adapt a point or two per shift, so if you don't give it time to adjust a failure will quickly occur. The more power and line pressure the lower the CVI number usually winds up. Hence when a high HP truck isn't given the chance to readapt the transmission can be destroyed in just one shift!
When the adaptives are reset, the transmission simply is out of sync with the controller. The transmission has X amount of wear in it while the controller is telling it has Y amount of wear. What happens is the shifting elements (clutches) are basically being applied with the incorrect amount of timing during the handoff when the off going clutch and on coming clutch are being released and applied. This can result in a flare or a bind during the shift. If this occurs at light throttle nothing bad will happen as the transmission TEACH the controller to slowly RELEARN the adaptives to where they need to be. This normally will take few dozen light throttle (less than 30%) upshift and downshift sequences and the adaptation process will be done.
If the truck is driven hard after the reflash and the transmission is not in sync with the controller, it will lead to transmission wear. In extreme cases, just one shift like this will completely destroy the transmission. The more power and throttle input the bigger the issue will be.
The next issue is CSP 5 or any other changing of power levels on the fly! When switching power levels you MUST allow the transmission to slowly adapt to the increased power levels. If the transmission is not given time to adapt to the new power levels you will damage the transmission in short order. Simply give the transmission 30 miles after a tune reflash to adapt in stop and go city driving before getting on it and you should be fine!"